Welcome to the world of wonderful leopard geckos.
In this blog, we have been looking at all aspects of leopard gecko care.
I thought I would write a post about leopard gecko basics for newbies. Such as what a leopard gecko is, where they come from, their average lifespan, size and other key leopard gecko facts.
There will be a lot more information about each topic on individual posts, but perhaps this will give a useful general overview.
If you are the type of person who is fond of caring for unique and gentle pet, then you have come to the right place. I truly believe that Leopard Geckos make a fantastic pet, one that will bring great enjoyment to you and also the rest of your family including kids.
Eublepharis macularius is the scientific name for the Leopard Gecko. Leopard geckos have become one of the most common geckos that are being kept as a house pet. If you want the full scientific classification, here it is: Animalia (Kingdom), Chordata (Phylum), Reptilia (Class), Squamata (Order), Geckoida (Family), Eublepharis (Genus), E. macularius (Species).
You can read this earlier post on why they are called leopard geckos in the first place.
The Leopard Gecko is a generally docile animal. Actually, I should clarify that, the leopard gecko is generally docile, friendly and gentle ONCE they have reached a certain level of maturity: baby leopard geckos are feisty teeny tiny little things..snarling mini-devil-geckos my friend calls them.
Over recent years, Leopard Geckos have gained popularity and are rapidly moving up the list of commonly-owned pets such as cats, dogs, fish and birds. Have you people seen the mascot of that famous automobile insurance company in those TV ads? Yes, all geckos have English accents, don't you know!
Here is a little background on leopard geckos and their origin
The Leopard Gecko is a native of Southern Asia, Pakistan, Afghanistan, India, Iran and Iraq. They lived there in harsh conditions, often under the blazing sun. So they slept by day to escape the heat and woke up at night.
To date, almost all of the Leopard Geckos that are being sold in the United States and most other places have been hatched and raised in confinement (captivity). This procedure eliminates the stress of shipping a gecko long distances. Leopard geckos aren't good with stress and it can cause illness and sometimes death.
How Big Does A Leopard Gecko Get?
Most Leopard Geckos grow to 10 to 12 inches (total length). They can be happy enough to live in an aquarium with 10 to 15 gallon capacity. Anything too small and again, you have to be aware of causing stress. No Gecko owner would want to own an unhappy Gecko as an unhappy gecko can create a sick gecko. That being said, if you are just starting and your Gecko is still young, you can then use a smaller vivarium and later move to a bigger habitat as your young reptile pet grows.
Taking care of a leopard gecko
Are you afraid that you may not be able to care for your Gecko properly? Then, worry no more. The Leopard Geckos are very easy to take care of. They are to be frank, clean animals (isn’t that amazing or what?). Unlike other household pets, Leopard Geckos are known to select a specific area of their habitat or place that they can exclusively use for their litters. That makes it easier for the owner to clean up. You can also place a toilet roll or paper towel in the specific spot that they choose, so cleaning up will be a breeze.
In a Leopard Geckos natural habitat, they actually live on soil (land). They are not into climbing trees, it is imperative that they are given or provided with a housing that gives them a lot of surface area. The aquarium’s bottom should always be covered with artificial turf, newspapers (can be used too), or paper towels. Please note that, you cannot use sand, “this is highly not recommended”. Your leopard gecko will ingest the sand when it actually captures its food.
Leopard gecko food
“Insectivores” that is what Leopard Geckos are. They are fond of eating live food. The likes of butter worms; crickets; cockroaches; wax worms or mealworms. A lot of Leopard Gecko owners chooses to raise crickets on their own even mealworms, specifically for the purpose of feeding their pets. Another must known fact is, if you are to feed your Leopard Gecko a cricket, you should place a stone in the middle of its water tray incase they fall in. That would actually prevent your Leopard Gecko from dirtying up its water.
Leopard geckos lifespan
For a lot of different reasons, a Leopard Gecko can be just the perfect pet for you. After reading this post, you will definitely want to rush and look at your local pet shop for a Leopard Gecko. Although, your decision to obtain a Leopard Gecko should not be done based on 'impulse'. Leopard Geckos are known to have a long life span (this is as far as pets go) so if finally you decide to get one for a pet make sure that you are more than willing to make the commitment to take care of it (for a very long time to come). Leopard Geckos can and may actually live for 20 years and sometimes even longer. There is one Leopard Gecko owner, who has written a letter addressed to the chief editor of the Reptiles Magazine, and actually state that their Leopard Gecko lived for almost thirty years!
These and more other facts about Leopard Geckos are to come, so read on!
Showing posts with label leopard gecko care. Show all posts
Showing posts with label leopard gecko care. Show all posts
Leopard gecko care ~ how to create the perfect leopard gecko habitat
Leopard geckos are known to be one of the easiest reptile pets to care for. That being said, it is still important to set up a proper leopard gecko habitat. Our little gecko pets require special housing if you want to keep the happy and healthy.
The following guidelines will help you build a decent leopard gecko habitat for healthy and safe lizard living.
LEOPARD GECKO HABITAT: A GLASS TERRARIUM
Plastic or glass terrariums offer the best type of leopard gecko housing. A terrarium simply means a container that simulates or replicates the natural habitat of your reptile pet. Glass is better than plastic, but both are fine.
Ideal terrariums are shallow and long. The smallest recommended size for a single leopard gecko is ten gallons.
What are the dimensions of a ten gallon fish tank or terrarium? In inches, that's usually 20" (width) x 12" (height) x 10" (depth). In centimetres, that's approximately 51cm x 31cm x 25cm
Two lizards will need a fifteen gallon tank and three to four leopard geckos will require about a twenty-gallon tank. I just did a quick ebay search and there's lots available. Love ebay!
Wire cages aren't a good idea. Unlike other geckos (the tree dwelling types), leopard geckos don't have those sticky pads on their feet and so they can't crawl up glass very easily and therefore they can't escape.
Make sure they can breathe though: the terrarium should have a wire mesh cover at the top for fresh air and circulation and to prevent escapes.
TERRARIUM TEMPERATURE
Leopard Geckos are ectothermic or cold blooded so they are not able to generate enough of their own body heat. Thus they require additional, external sources of heat. Your glass terrarium should be heated to 80 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit (26 to 30 degrees centigrade) during daytime with a basking spot of around 88 to 90 degree Fahrenheit (31 degrees to 32 degrees). Make sure there's a cooler spot too of around 70F (21C) And at night time, keep to around 70 degrees F (21c). You'll need a thermometer to check on this.
FURNITURE, LANDSCAPING AND PLANTS
This is where the fun begins! Now you can get creative and create an environment that simulates your gecko pets' natural home. I've seen some amazing constructions.
The more things for your leopard gecko to climb over and explore, the more motivation for him to move around. Although 'blinging' up your leopard gecko terrarium might seem to be the fun bit, it's also a key part of good leopard gecko care too.
Logs, rocks will make a natural living area and give him the areas for climbing and exercise. Artificial or live plants can also give your gecko more hiding spots and much natural feel, though you don't really need them. If you want to install a live plant, select them carefully as some plants can be poisonous to reptiles. Dry cactus skeletons work well.
Have a basking area (like a big rock) and a hiding area (to cool off). A basking area could be a piece of wood like a dry branch or a rock. There should be one basking area per gecko.
For the hiding spot, you can use an old cardboard box, inverted pots of clay, overlapping rocks or portions of curved barks. Like the basking area, if you have more geckos you should also have more hiding spots.
CLEANING YOUR TERRARIUM
Maintaining good hygiene is another key part of leopard gecko care. You should change the water every day and look around for any uneaten insects, mould or stagnant water pools and any other dirt. It shouldn't take more than 5-10 minutes to have a quick daily inspection. Then about once a week, have a more thorough clean out: change the substrate (floor covering), clean all around the terrarium and disinfect the water bowls. Remember that strong disinfectants and bleach can be very harmful to your leopard gecko, so take care to fully rinse every thing off with water.
There's so much more to say about leopard gecko care and creating the perfect leopard gecko habitat. I'll write more about it soon, but the key thing is to keep your terrarium clean, try to mimic a gecko's native environment (minus the hazards!!) and most of all, have fun with it! There is work to be done when you have a leopard gecko pet, but after a bit of practice it doesn't take long to clean out the terrarium and it can even be fun if you rope in one of the family or a friend! It can become your regular ritual. I've seen some very creative, stunning terrariums, so it's also a chance to exercise those creative juices!
If you're looking for a starting place to start designing a cool vivarium, here's my choice as the
Best Book On Vivarium Designs
Here's to your leopard gecko terrarium success!
GGG
The following guidelines will help you build a decent leopard gecko habitat for healthy and safe lizard living.
LEOPARD GECKO HABITAT: A GLASS TERRARIUM
Plastic or glass terrariums offer the best type of leopard gecko housing. A terrarium simply means a container that simulates or replicates the natural habitat of your reptile pet. Glass is better than plastic, but both are fine.
Ideal terrariums are shallow and long. The smallest recommended size for a single leopard gecko is ten gallons.
What are the dimensions of a ten gallon fish tank or terrarium? In inches, that's usually 20" (width) x 12" (height) x 10" (depth). In centimetres, that's approximately 51cm x 31cm x 25cm
Two lizards will need a fifteen gallon tank and three to four leopard geckos will require about a twenty-gallon tank. I just did a quick ebay search and there's lots available. Love ebay!
Wire cages aren't a good idea. Unlike other geckos (the tree dwelling types), leopard geckos don't have those sticky pads on their feet and so they can't crawl up glass very easily and therefore they can't escape.
Make sure they can breathe though: the terrarium should have a wire mesh cover at the top for fresh air and circulation and to prevent escapes.
TERRARIUM TEMPERATURE
Leopard Geckos are ectothermic or cold blooded so they are not able to generate enough of their own body heat. Thus they require additional, external sources of heat. Your glass terrarium should be heated to 80 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit (26 to 30 degrees centigrade) during daytime with a basking spot of around 88 to 90 degree Fahrenheit (31 degrees to 32 degrees). Make sure there's a cooler spot too of around 70F (21C) And at night time, keep to around 70 degrees F (21c). You'll need a thermometer to check on this.
FURNITURE, LANDSCAPING AND PLANTS
This is where the fun begins! Now you can get creative and create an environment that simulates your gecko pets' natural home. I've seen some amazing constructions.
The more things for your leopard gecko to climb over and explore, the more motivation for him to move around. Although 'blinging' up your leopard gecko terrarium might seem to be the fun bit, it's also a key part of good leopard gecko care too.
Logs, rocks will make a natural living area and give him the areas for climbing and exercise. Artificial or live plants can also give your gecko more hiding spots and much natural feel, though you don't really need them. If you want to install a live plant, select them carefully as some plants can be poisonous to reptiles. Dry cactus skeletons work well.
Have a basking area (like a big rock) and a hiding area (to cool off). A basking area could be a piece of wood like a dry branch or a rock. There should be one basking area per gecko.
For the hiding spot, you can use an old cardboard box, inverted pots of clay, overlapping rocks or portions of curved barks. Like the basking area, if you have more geckos you should also have more hiding spots.
CLEANING YOUR TERRARIUM
Maintaining good hygiene is another key part of leopard gecko care. You should change the water every day and look around for any uneaten insects, mould or stagnant water pools and any other dirt. It shouldn't take more than 5-10 minutes to have a quick daily inspection. Then about once a week, have a more thorough clean out: change the substrate (floor covering), clean all around the terrarium and disinfect the water bowls. Remember that strong disinfectants and bleach can be very harmful to your leopard gecko, so take care to fully rinse every thing off with water.
There's so much more to say about leopard gecko care and creating the perfect leopard gecko habitat. I'll write more about it soon, but the key thing is to keep your terrarium clean, try to mimic a gecko's native environment (minus the hazards!!) and most of all, have fun with it! There is work to be done when you have a leopard gecko pet, but after a bit of practice it doesn't take long to clean out the terrarium and it can even be fun if you rope in one of the family or a friend! It can become your regular ritual. I've seen some very creative, stunning terrariums, so it's also a chance to exercise those creative juices!
If you're looking for a starting place to start designing a cool vivarium, here's my choice as the
Best Book On Vivarium Designs
Here's to your leopard gecko terrarium success!
GGG
What Is A Leopard Gecko and why do they make such great pets?
What is a Leopard Gecko?
The Leopard Geckos were first named as a species specifically as Eublepharis Macularis by Edward Blyth a British Zoologist back in 1854. The name Eublepharis were derived from the Greek words “Eu” (meaning True) and blephar (meaning eyelid). Having an eyelid is what distinguishes members of this subfamily apart from other Geckos. Macularius came from the Latin word “Macula” which means “spot or blemish”, this is in reference to the leopard Geckos natural spot like markings.
Leopard Geckos are natives of Pakistan, Iran, India and Afghanistan where mostly the geographical location is dry and rocky terrain. Geckos are known to be nocturnal creatures, and are known to live under ground.
One of Leopard Geckos main characteristics is its triangular head and large tail, please note that fat is stored directly in the Gecko’s tail. A Geckos skin is patterned heavily and bumpy. Patterns are designed to hide or camouflage a Gecko from prospective danger from its predators.
Leopard Geckos make a great house pet. They are so tiny that they fit in a vivarium that uses up minimal space in your bedroom or living room. They also require less care and attention than other pets such as dogs. They are typically quiet by nature, they do not emit any bad smell or odor. Some leopard geckos do not like to be touched too often.
Leopard Geckos are also inexpensive compared to buying other exotic animals, they are also available legally from pet stores and other Gecko breeders. They come in variety of colors and pattern variations too. Thus, Leopard geckos are called as the perfect house pet.
The Leopard Geckos were first named as a species specifically as Eublepharis Macularis by Edward Blyth a British Zoologist back in 1854. The name Eublepharis were derived from the Greek words “Eu” (meaning True) and blephar (meaning eyelid). Having an eyelid is what distinguishes members of this subfamily apart from other Geckos. Macularius came from the Latin word “Macula” which means “spot or blemish”, this is in reference to the leopard Geckos natural spot like markings.
Leopard Geckos are natives of Pakistan, Iran, India and Afghanistan where mostly the geographical location is dry and rocky terrain. Geckos are known to be nocturnal creatures, and are known to live under ground.
One of Leopard Geckos main characteristics is its triangular head and large tail, please note that fat is stored directly in the Gecko’s tail. A Geckos skin is patterned heavily and bumpy. Patterns are designed to hide or camouflage a Gecko from prospective danger from its predators.
Leopard Geckos make a great house pet. They are so tiny that they fit in a vivarium that uses up minimal space in your bedroom or living room. They also require less care and attention than other pets such as dogs. They are typically quiet by nature, they do not emit any bad smell or odor. Some leopard geckos do not like to be touched too often.
Leopard Geckos are also inexpensive compared to buying other exotic animals, they are also available legally from pet stores and other Gecko breeders. They come in variety of colors and pattern variations too. Thus, Leopard geckos are called as the perfect house pet.
Ways to keep your leopard gecko happy | a happy leopard gecko is a healthy leopard gecko!!
Ways to make your Gecko happy
Here are the most basics tips in making and keeping your Leopard Gecko pets happy.
Always give them enough space. Do not overcrowd your Geckos. A space of 10 to 15 Gallon capacity is only good for one Gecko. While 15 to 20 Gallon capacity can accommodate at least two mature Geckos. Never put together 2 dominant Male Geckos in a same cage, to avoid fighting and eventually injuring each other.
Do not pick your Gecko by its tail. A Leopard Geckos tail is prone to falling off, it is basically their automatic response to any threat (i.e. predators attack). Although, their tail will definitely grow back, the new tail will not look like the first one that it replaced.
Geckos are known to be a solitary creature, as much as possible avoid touching them too often.
Do not use a substrate that will be hard for your pet to digest. Don't ever house them on sand no matter what people tell you.
Always, make your Geckos drinking bowl clean. Change it about once a day. Also, avoid putting the feeders near its drinking bowl to avoid contamination.
And make sure that you clean your Geckos habitat and wash your hands before and after handling and a leopard gecko too.
With these tips, we are sure that your Gecko will live longer and a much happier life.
Here are the most basics tips in making and keeping your Leopard Gecko pets happy.
Always give them enough space. Do not overcrowd your Geckos. A space of 10 to 15 Gallon capacity is only good for one Gecko. While 15 to 20 Gallon capacity can accommodate at least two mature Geckos. Never put together 2 dominant Male Geckos in a same cage, to avoid fighting and eventually injuring each other.
Do not pick your Gecko by its tail. A Leopard Geckos tail is prone to falling off, it is basically their automatic response to any threat (i.e. predators attack). Although, their tail will definitely grow back, the new tail will not look like the first one that it replaced.
Geckos are known to be a solitary creature, as much as possible avoid touching them too often.
Do not use a substrate that will be hard for your pet to digest. Don't ever house them on sand no matter what people tell you.
Always, make your Geckos drinking bowl clean. Change it about once a day. Also, avoid putting the feeders near its drinking bowl to avoid contamination.
And make sure that you clean your Geckos habitat and wash your hands before and after handling and a leopard gecko too.
With these tips, we are sure that your Gecko will live longer and a much happier life.
What should I feed my leopard gecko?
What should I feed my Gecko?
Leopard Geckos eats insects. The most common insects available commercially are crickets, mealworms, super worms, wax worms and silk worms. If you use crickets and mealworms as the primary food and wax worms as treats, you should have a happy Gecko.
Crickets
Crickets are a good source of food and nutrition in your Leopard Gecko’s diet. You should “gut load” your crickets before feeding them to your Gecko. “Gut loading” is making sure the crickets are well fed. This way they pass the maximum amount of nutrients to your Gecko. You can feed the crickets’ commercial cricket food and liquid or just use a piece of potato and some oats. Crickets are very resourceful and are sometimes difficult for the Gecko to catch. If this is the case, you may have to remove the rear jumping legs of the cricket. It is always a good idea to leave a small piece of potato, carrot, or apple for the crickets to eat. The food will also draw out the crickets and make them easier to catch.
Mealworms and wax worms
Mealworms are another good food source for your Gecko. Feeding your Gecko mealworms is also a much easier task since they can be placed in a bowl. The bowl must be smooth to prevent escape. This way the mealworms are available whenever your Gecko is hungry. Leopard Geckos likes wax worms, but the worms are too fatty to be a part of the main diet. Wax worms makes an excellent treat and are a good way to fatten up a female after she has laid eggs.
Supplementing the diet
Vitamin and mineral supplements are an important part of your Leopard Gecko’s diet. Calcium is the most important mineral and should be available to your Gecko at all times by placing a dish with calcium powder in the cage. The feeder insects should also be coated with calcium powder prior to feeding. For adult Geckos coat the insects 1 to 2 times per week. For babies, juveniles, and breeding females coat the insects daily. Vitamins are also a necessary part of the gecko diet, but should be used sparingly and not on the same day as calcium. Feeder insects should be coated with vitamins once every 7 to 10 days. To coat the insects place them in a bag or cup with the vitamin or mineral powder. Shake the container around until all the insects are dusted with powder.
Geckos need water
Your Leopard Gecko needs water so keep a shallow dish with water in the cage. Water dishes that are too deep tend to trap and drown crickets, wasting the insect and fouling the water. It is best to use a dish that is shallow in order to give the insect a better chance of escape. You should clean the dish every few day to help prevent bacteria and fungus from growing.
Hope you've enjoyed these feeding tips!
As always...here's to your leopard gecko care success!!
Leopard Geckos eats insects. The most common insects available commercially are crickets, mealworms, super worms, wax worms and silk worms. If you use crickets and mealworms as the primary food and wax worms as treats, you should have a happy Gecko.
Crickets
Crickets are a good source of food and nutrition in your Leopard Gecko’s diet. You should “gut load” your crickets before feeding them to your Gecko. “Gut loading” is making sure the crickets are well fed. This way they pass the maximum amount of nutrients to your Gecko. You can feed the crickets’ commercial cricket food and liquid or just use a piece of potato and some oats. Crickets are very resourceful and are sometimes difficult for the Gecko to catch. If this is the case, you may have to remove the rear jumping legs of the cricket. It is always a good idea to leave a small piece of potato, carrot, or apple for the crickets to eat. The food will also draw out the crickets and make them easier to catch.
Mealworms and wax worms
Mealworms are another good food source for your Gecko. Feeding your Gecko mealworms is also a much easier task since they can be placed in a bowl. The bowl must be smooth to prevent escape. This way the mealworms are available whenever your Gecko is hungry. Leopard Geckos likes wax worms, but the worms are too fatty to be a part of the main diet. Wax worms makes an excellent treat and are a good way to fatten up a female after she has laid eggs.
Supplementing the diet
Vitamin and mineral supplements are an important part of your Leopard Gecko’s diet. Calcium is the most important mineral and should be available to your Gecko at all times by placing a dish with calcium powder in the cage. The feeder insects should also be coated with calcium powder prior to feeding. For adult Geckos coat the insects 1 to 2 times per week. For babies, juveniles, and breeding females coat the insects daily. Vitamins are also a necessary part of the gecko diet, but should be used sparingly and not on the same day as calcium. Feeder insects should be coated with vitamins once every 7 to 10 days. To coat the insects place them in a bag or cup with the vitamin or mineral powder. Shake the container around until all the insects are dusted with powder.
Geckos need water
Your Leopard Gecko needs water so keep a shallow dish with water in the cage. Water dishes that are too deep tend to trap and drown crickets, wasting the insect and fouling the water. It is best to use a dish that is shallow in order to give the insect a better chance of escape. You should clean the dish every few day to help prevent bacteria and fungus from growing.
Hope you've enjoyed these feeding tips!
As always...here's to your leopard gecko care success!!
Caring for your leopard gecko | some key tips on leopard gecko care
Caring for your Leopard Gecko
Leopard geckos are very easy to care for. They are surprisingly clean animals. They will pick out a specific area of their living space to use for litter which makes them much easier to clean up after. You may even place a paper towel or similar material in the spot they choose so that clean up is quick and easy.
In their natural habitat leopard geckos live on land. They do not tend to climb trees so it is important that they be provided with housing that provides maximum surface area. The bottom of the aquarium should be covered with some sort of artificial turf, paper towels, or even newspapers. Sand is not recommended as there is a risk that the gecko will ingest too much of it when it captures its meal.
Geckos are insectivores and like to eat live food such as butter worms, cockroaches, crickets, mealworms or wax worms. Many gecko owners choose to raise crickets or mealworms specifically for feeding their pets. If you feed your gecko crickets it is a good idea to place a rock in the center of the water dish to provide the crickets an easy way to get out of the water should they fall in. This will prevent them from fouling up the water.
For many different reasons a gecko can be the perfect pet for you. After reading this, you will probably want to go out and look at a live gecko at your local pet shop. The choice to obtain a gecko should not be an 'impulse' decision. They have a very long life span as far as pets go so if you get one be sure that you are willing to make the commitment to take care of it for a long time to come. Leopard geckos may live 20 years or longer. According to one gecko owner, who wrote a letter to the editor of Reptiles Magazine, their gecko lived for nearly thirty years!
Substrates suitable for your Gecko
The use of slate rocks, s. If you can get smooth flat stones this seems like a good option for making a naturalistic environment that holds and distributes heat well, without much diminished risks of ingesting substrate.
The use of sand is considered unsafe by some, due to the risk of ingestion and impaction (either due to accidental ingestion or due to intentional ingestion to meet calcium needs) -- this is a bigger risk for juveniles so sand should never be used with juvenile geckos. In fact, the general advice is to avoid housing any leopard geckos on sand. Other potential difficulties with sand include dust (which can lead to respiratory problems), and bacterial or mold growth in wet sand.
Provide a dish of calcium supplement to help meet calcium needs. Feeding prey items in a dish can also reduce the chance of ingestion.
Also, monitor for signs of obstruction, which indicate the need for an urgent visit to a vet: decreased appetite, decrease in bowel movements, lethargy, and dark spots on abdomen.
The use of paper towels are one of the best substrates, and are the recommended substrate for juvenile leopard geckos (as well as sickly geckos), but can be used for any leopard gecko. With paper towel substrate, there are no worries about ingestion or inhalation of substrate, and it is absorbent, hygienic, and easy to clean (which reduces the chance of illness). It also makes monitoring health (e.g. eating, bowel movements) easy.
Leopard geckos are very easy to care for. They are surprisingly clean animals. They will pick out a specific area of their living space to use for litter which makes them much easier to clean up after. You may even place a paper towel or similar material in the spot they choose so that clean up is quick and easy.
In their natural habitat leopard geckos live on land. They do not tend to climb trees so it is important that they be provided with housing that provides maximum surface area. The bottom of the aquarium should be covered with some sort of artificial turf, paper towels, or even newspapers. Sand is not recommended as there is a risk that the gecko will ingest too much of it when it captures its meal.
Geckos are insectivores and like to eat live food such as butter worms, cockroaches, crickets, mealworms or wax worms. Many gecko owners choose to raise crickets or mealworms specifically for feeding their pets. If you feed your gecko crickets it is a good idea to place a rock in the center of the water dish to provide the crickets an easy way to get out of the water should they fall in. This will prevent them from fouling up the water.
For many different reasons a gecko can be the perfect pet for you. After reading this, you will probably want to go out and look at a live gecko at your local pet shop. The choice to obtain a gecko should not be an 'impulse' decision. They have a very long life span as far as pets go so if you get one be sure that you are willing to make the commitment to take care of it for a long time to come. Leopard geckos may live 20 years or longer. According to one gecko owner, who wrote a letter to the editor of Reptiles Magazine, their gecko lived for nearly thirty years!
Substrates suitable for your Gecko
The use of slate rocks, s. If you can get smooth flat stones this seems like a good option for making a naturalistic environment that holds and distributes heat well, without much diminished risks of ingesting substrate.
The use of sand is considered unsafe by some, due to the risk of ingestion and impaction (either due to accidental ingestion or due to intentional ingestion to meet calcium needs) -- this is a bigger risk for juveniles so sand should never be used with juvenile geckos. In fact, the general advice is to avoid housing any leopard geckos on sand. Other potential difficulties with sand include dust (which can lead to respiratory problems), and bacterial or mold growth in wet sand.
Provide a dish of calcium supplement to help meet calcium needs. Feeding prey items in a dish can also reduce the chance of ingestion.
Also, monitor for signs of obstruction, which indicate the need for an urgent visit to a vet: decreased appetite, decrease in bowel movements, lethargy, and dark spots on abdomen.
The use of paper towels are one of the best substrates, and are the recommended substrate for juvenile leopard geckos (as well as sickly geckos), but can be used for any leopard gecko. With paper towel substrate, there are no worries about ingestion or inhalation of substrate, and it is absorbent, hygienic, and easy to clean (which reduces the chance of illness). It also makes monitoring health (e.g. eating, bowel movements) easy.
Leopard gecko breeding
Reproduction of a Leopard Gecko
Leopard Geckos become sexually mature at the age of 10 to 15 months. Male Leopard Geckos are generally more larger and broader (bulkier) as opposed to female Leopard Geckos, Male Leopard Geckos also possess a V-shaped row of pre-anal pores in front of their cloacal that are distinguishably much darker and more prominent than a female, and a noticeable bulge at the base of its tail caused by the hemipenis. Also males are often more boldly colored than females, but this is not always true.
Leopard Geckos breeding period is from March through September, though it is common that the season may start as early as January and finish as late as October. When a male encounters a female, the male Gecko will shake its tail. While as a response, the female Gecko will silently sway its tail from side to side in the ground. Following this action, the male Gecko will lick the female Gecko to obtain its scent and will begin biting the female Gecko from its lower body upwards. If the female Gecko does not wish to mate with a certain male Gecko, she will bite back and the male Gecko will cease his activity. If the female Gecko accepts on the other hand, the male Gecko will continue up to her neck, making his body parallel to the female Gecko and placing his hind leg over her tail, inserting one of his hemipenis into her cloaca.
Thirty days after that, the female Gecko will lay one or more eggs with a leathery shell. Clutches of two eggs will then be laid every two weeks to monthly throughout the rest of the mating season varying from each Gecko according to their age, with older females gradually laying lesser eggs with each year. The eggs will need to be incubated.
Like other egg-laying reptiles the sex of Leopard Geckos are determined by incubation temperature. Eggs incubated at 79 °F which will result in a majority of female neonates, whereas eggs incubated at 85-87 °F which will result in a more even sex ratio and eggs incubated at 89-90 °F in the first four weeks will then result in more males. Females hatched from these eggs are generally more belligerent as opposed to other females, and they tend to reach sexual maturity later if at all. An incubation temperature lower than 77 °F or higher than 97 °F will usually cause deformities and usually death of the neonates incubated at these temperatures.
Leopard Geckos become sexually mature at the age of 10 to 15 months. Male Leopard Geckos are generally more larger and broader (bulkier) as opposed to female Leopard Geckos, Male Leopard Geckos also possess a V-shaped row of pre-anal pores in front of their cloacal that are distinguishably much darker and more prominent than a female, and a noticeable bulge at the base of its tail caused by the hemipenis. Also males are often more boldly colored than females, but this is not always true.
Leopard Geckos breeding period is from March through September, though it is common that the season may start as early as January and finish as late as October. When a male encounters a female, the male Gecko will shake its tail. While as a response, the female Gecko will silently sway its tail from side to side in the ground. Following this action, the male Gecko will lick the female Gecko to obtain its scent and will begin biting the female Gecko from its lower body upwards. If the female Gecko does not wish to mate with a certain male Gecko, she will bite back and the male Gecko will cease his activity. If the female Gecko accepts on the other hand, the male Gecko will continue up to her neck, making his body parallel to the female Gecko and placing his hind leg over her tail, inserting one of his hemipenis into her cloaca.
Thirty days after that, the female Gecko will lay one or more eggs with a leathery shell. Clutches of two eggs will then be laid every two weeks to monthly throughout the rest of the mating season varying from each Gecko according to their age, with older females gradually laying lesser eggs with each year. The eggs will need to be incubated.
Like other egg-laying reptiles the sex of Leopard Geckos are determined by incubation temperature. Eggs incubated at 79 °F which will result in a majority of female neonates, whereas eggs incubated at 85-87 °F which will result in a more even sex ratio and eggs incubated at 89-90 °F in the first four weeks will then result in more males. Females hatched from these eggs are generally more belligerent as opposed to other females, and they tend to reach sexual maturity later if at all. An incubation temperature lower than 77 °F or higher than 97 °F will usually cause deformities and usually death of the neonates incubated at these temperatures.
How often can or should you take your leopard gecko out?
I know some gecko pet owners take their little gecko pets out all the time so I guess it depends on the particular personality (and hardiness) of your little reptile pet.
Some leopard geckos love to chill out on the stomach on their owners, watching Friends re-runs. Other prefer the warmth and comfort in the hood of a hoodie.
The general advice is to let newbie leopard geckos settle a bit first and then you might be able to expand their time out of the cage. After that, maybe 3-4 times a week you can let them out. You'll have to let them out any way about once a week to clean their cage / vivarium / terrarium (otherwise known as home!)
Always be responsive and aware of your lizard's state...if they are freaking out or looking stressed in any way, return them to the terrarium. Sometimes, there's just no place like home :-)
Here's to your leopard gecko...homeboy or party boy!!
Some leopard geckos love to chill out on the stomach on their owners, watching Friends re-runs. Other prefer the warmth and comfort in the hood of a hoodie.
The general advice is to let newbie leopard geckos settle a bit first and then you might be able to expand their time out of the cage. After that, maybe 3-4 times a week you can let them out. You'll have to let them out any way about once a week to clean their cage / vivarium / terrarium (otherwise known as home!)
Always be responsive and aware of your lizard's state...if they are freaking out or looking stressed in any way, return them to the terrarium. Sometimes, there's just no place like home :-)
Here's to your leopard gecko...homeboy or party boy!!
Leopard gecko food | how to breed crickets as food for your leopard gecko and other reptile pets
The video quality isn't great...all handycam and handheld but the audio is good and generally it's worth watching this video on how to breed crickets for reptiles including leopard geckos.
Extra tip: sprinkle cricket diet food onto the cricket which gives them extra nutrition and they will spread the good health to your reptile.
Extra tip: sprinkle cricket diet food onto the cricket which gives them extra nutrition and they will spread the good health to your reptile.
Leopard gecko substrate. What should I put as flooring in my leopard gecko cage?
Question: What Substrate Should I Use for My Leopard Gecko?
Choosing a substrate can be one of the more confusing aspects of setting up a tank for leopard geckos. There is much debate over which substrates are safe, and the best choice depends on the age of your leopard gecko pet as well.
Paper towels, though not as attractive in a terrarium as some other options, are one of the best substrates available. For juveniles and hatchlings (under a year old), paper towels are your best choice in a substrate. Either that or nothing at all. For adults there are more choices but the recommendations can be confusing. Here is a run down of some options you can look at, and some to avoid.
Paper Towels
As mentioned previously, paper towels are one of the best substrates, and are the recommended substrate for juvenile leopard geckos (as well as sickly geckos), but can be used for any leopard gecko. With paper towel substrate, there are no worries about ingestion or inhalation of substrate, and it is absorbent, hygienic, and easy to clean (which reduces the chance of illness). It also makes monitoring health (e.g. eating, bowel movements) easy.
Sand
This is where the debate over substrates gets heated. Sand is considered unsafe by some, due to the risk of ingestion and impaction (either due to accidental ingestion or due to intentional ingestion to meet calcium needs) -- this is a bigger risk for juveniles so sand should never be used with juvenile geckos. Other potential difficulties with sand include dust (which can lead to respiratory problems), and bacterial or mold growth in wet sand. I would say don't house leopard geckos on sand, especially the calci-sand that is supposed to be recommendation. Leopard geckos might accidentally eat the sand, the sand will clog up with the liquids on their stomach, causing blockages (impaction). Leopard gecko impaction can cause stress, severe discomfort and even death in extreme cases.
Paper such as newspaper
Like paper towels, paper is utilitarian but safe and easy to clean. You can get brown butcher paper or unprinted newsprint quite economically and just replace the substrate when it is soiled.
Indoor/Outdoor or Reptile Carpet
This is also easy to clean and carries little risk of ingestion (but watch for loose threads that could possibly be ingested or trap a leg), but these can be a bit rough for gecko skin. Keep two pieces on hand to make cleaning easier (when one is soiled, remove it for a thorough cleaning, simply replacing it with the second piece. When the soiled one is disinfected and dry, you can just swap them out again).
Reptile Bedding (Eco-Bedding, Bed-a-Beast, etc.)
There are a variety of bedding products available and some people use these with geckos. Some consist of small particles that could be ingested with feeding, and many experts advise against them. If you choose such a substrate, take the same precautions as with sand.
Slate Rocks
Adding slate rocks, set into a small amount of sand to anchor them and fill the spaces make a nice resting area for leopard geckos. If you can get smooth flat stones this seems like a good option for making a naturalistic environment that holds and distributes heat well, without much diminished risks of ingesting substrate (the amount of sand between the stones is less likely to be a problem than an open area of sand).
I hope this helps clear up the confusion with leopard gecko substrate
Choosing a substrate can be one of the more confusing aspects of setting up a tank for leopard geckos. There is much debate over which substrates are safe, and the best choice depends on the age of your leopard gecko pet as well.
Paper towels, though not as attractive in a terrarium as some other options, are one of the best substrates available. For juveniles and hatchlings (under a year old), paper towels are your best choice in a substrate. Either that or nothing at all. For adults there are more choices but the recommendations can be confusing. Here is a run down of some options you can look at, and some to avoid.
Paper Towels
As mentioned previously, paper towels are one of the best substrates, and are the recommended substrate for juvenile leopard geckos (as well as sickly geckos), but can be used for any leopard gecko. With paper towel substrate, there are no worries about ingestion or inhalation of substrate, and it is absorbent, hygienic, and easy to clean (which reduces the chance of illness). It also makes monitoring health (e.g. eating, bowel movements) easy.
Sand
This is where the debate over substrates gets heated. Sand is considered unsafe by some, due to the risk of ingestion and impaction (either due to accidental ingestion or due to intentional ingestion to meet calcium needs) -- this is a bigger risk for juveniles so sand should never be used with juvenile geckos. Other potential difficulties with sand include dust (which can lead to respiratory problems), and bacterial or mold growth in wet sand. I would say don't house leopard geckos on sand, especially the calci-sand that is supposed to be recommendation. Leopard geckos might accidentally eat the sand, the sand will clog up with the liquids on their stomach, causing blockages (impaction). Leopard gecko impaction can cause stress, severe discomfort and even death in extreme cases.
Paper such as newspaper
Like paper towels, paper is utilitarian but safe and easy to clean. You can get brown butcher paper or unprinted newsprint quite economically and just replace the substrate when it is soiled.
Indoor/Outdoor or Reptile Carpet
This is also easy to clean and carries little risk of ingestion (but watch for loose threads that could possibly be ingested or trap a leg), but these can be a bit rough for gecko skin. Keep two pieces on hand to make cleaning easier (when one is soiled, remove it for a thorough cleaning, simply replacing it with the second piece. When the soiled one is disinfected and dry, you can just swap them out again).
Reptile Bedding (Eco-Bedding, Bed-a-Beast, etc.)
There are a variety of bedding products available and some people use these with geckos. Some consist of small particles that could be ingested with feeding, and many experts advise against them. If you choose such a substrate, take the same precautions as with sand.
Slate Rocks
Adding slate rocks, set into a small amount of sand to anchor them and fill the spaces make a nice resting area for leopard geckos. If you can get smooth flat stones this seems like a good option for making a naturalistic environment that holds and distributes heat well, without much diminished risks of ingesting substrate (the amount of sand between the stones is less likely to be a problem than an open area of sand).
I hope this helps clear up the confusion with leopard gecko substrate
How to set up a hatchling leopard gecko | how-to video
Watch this video on how to set up a hatchling leopard gecko cage. It's from oggiereptile who is one of my favorite youtube leopard gecko regulars. This one is all about creating a habitat for your baby leopard gecko. Interesting note on a substrates in particular...baby leopard geckos pick up anything so you have to be careful about housing them on loose materials especially sand. He recommends 'tissue or nothing'. Second that.
Leopard geckos always need a place to hide/shelter. oggiereptile here uses a cheap, simple lightbulb box to act as a hide which is great.
He goes through humidity boxes too which are very easy to purchase and use.
Be very careful not to make the water bowl too deep or they might drown. Bottle lids work well. You need two: one filled with water and one filled with pure calcium (not the calcium with vitamin and minerals because you can dust them with that)
Leopard geckos always need a place to hide/shelter. oggiereptile here uses a cheap, simple lightbulb box to act as a hide which is great.
He goes through humidity boxes too which are very easy to purchase and use.
Be very careful not to make the water bowl too deep or they might drown. Bottle lids work well. You need two: one filled with water and one filled with pure calcium (not the calcium with vitamin and minerals because you can dust them with that)
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