Welcome to the world of wonderful leopard geckos.
In this blog, we have been looking at all aspects of leopard gecko care.
I thought I would write a post about leopard gecko basics for newbies. Such as what a leopard gecko is, where they come from, their average lifespan, size and other key leopard gecko facts.
There will be a lot more information about each topic on individual posts, but perhaps this will give a useful general overview.
If you are the type of person who is fond of caring for unique and gentle pet, then you have come to the right place. I truly believe that Leopard Geckos make a fantastic pet, one that will bring great enjoyment to you and also the rest of your family including kids.
Eublepharis macularius is the scientific name for the Leopard Gecko. Leopard geckos have become one of the most common geckos that are being kept as a house pet. If you want the full scientific classification, here it is: Animalia (Kingdom), Chordata (Phylum), Reptilia (Class), Squamata (Order), Geckoida (Family), Eublepharis (Genus), E. macularius (Species).
You can read this earlier post on why they are called leopard geckos in the first place.
The Leopard Gecko is a generally docile animal. Actually, I should clarify that, the leopard gecko is generally docile, friendly and gentle ONCE they have reached a certain level of maturity: baby leopard geckos are feisty teeny tiny little things..snarling mini-devil-geckos my friend calls them.
Over recent years, Leopard Geckos have gained popularity and are rapidly moving up the list of commonly-owned pets such as cats, dogs, fish and birds. Have you people seen the mascot of that famous automobile insurance company in those TV ads? Yes, all geckos have English accents, don't you know!
Here is a little background on leopard geckos and their origin
The Leopard Gecko is a native of Southern Asia, Pakistan, Afghanistan, India, Iran and Iraq. They lived there in harsh conditions, often under the blazing sun. So they slept by day to escape the heat and woke up at night.
To date, almost all of the Leopard Geckos that are being sold in the United States and most other places have been hatched and raised in confinement (captivity). This procedure eliminates the stress of shipping a gecko long distances. Leopard geckos aren't good with stress and it can cause illness and sometimes death.
How Big Does A Leopard Gecko Get?
Most Leopard Geckos grow to 10 to 12 inches (total length). They can be happy enough to live in an aquarium with 10 to 15 gallon capacity. Anything too small and again, you have to be aware of causing stress. No Gecko owner would want to own an unhappy Gecko as an unhappy gecko can create a sick gecko. That being said, if you are just starting and your Gecko is still young, you can then use a smaller vivarium and later move to a bigger habitat as your young reptile pet grows.
Taking care of a leopard gecko
Are you afraid that you may not be able to care for your Gecko properly? Then, worry no more. The Leopard Geckos are very easy to take care of. They are to be frank, clean animals (isn’t that amazing or what?). Unlike other household pets, Leopard Geckos are known to select a specific area of their habitat or place that they can exclusively use for their litters. That makes it easier for the owner to clean up. You can also place a toilet roll or paper towel in the specific spot that they choose, so cleaning up will be a breeze.
In a Leopard Geckos natural habitat, they actually live on soil (land). They are not into climbing trees, it is imperative that they are given or provided with a housing that gives them a lot of surface area. The aquarium’s bottom should always be covered with artificial turf, newspapers (can be used too), or paper towels. Please note that, you cannot use sand, “this is highly not recommended”. Your leopard gecko will ingest the sand when it actually captures its food.
Leopard gecko food
“Insectivores” that is what Leopard Geckos are. They are fond of eating live food. The likes of butter worms; crickets; cockroaches; wax worms or mealworms. A lot of Leopard Gecko owners chooses to raise crickets on their own even mealworms, specifically for the purpose of feeding their pets. Another must known fact is, if you are to feed your Leopard Gecko a cricket, you should place a stone in the middle of its water tray incase they fall in. That would actually prevent your Leopard Gecko from dirtying up its water.
Leopard geckos lifespan
For a lot of different reasons, a Leopard Gecko can be just the perfect pet for you. After reading this post, you will definitely want to rush and look at your local pet shop for a Leopard Gecko. Although, your decision to obtain a Leopard Gecko should not be done based on 'impulse'. Leopard Geckos are known to have a long life span (this is as far as pets go) so if finally you decide to get one for a pet make sure that you are more than willing to make the commitment to take care of it (for a very long time to come). Leopard Geckos can and may actually live for 20 years and sometimes even longer. There is one Leopard Gecko owner, who has written a letter addressed to the chief editor of the Reptiles Magazine, and actually state that their Leopard Gecko lived for almost thirty years!
These and more other facts about Leopard Geckos are to come, so read on!
Leopard gecko care ~ how to create the perfect leopard gecko habitat
Leopard geckos are known to be one of the easiest reptile pets to care for. That being said, it is still important to set up a proper leopard gecko habitat. Our little gecko pets require special housing if you want to keep the happy and healthy.
The following guidelines will help you build a decent leopard gecko habitat for healthy and safe lizard living.
LEOPARD GECKO HABITAT: A GLASS TERRARIUM
Plastic or glass terrariums offer the best type of leopard gecko housing. A terrarium simply means a container that simulates or replicates the natural habitat of your reptile pet. Glass is better than plastic, but both are fine.
Ideal terrariums are shallow and long. The smallest recommended size for a single leopard gecko is ten gallons.
What are the dimensions of a ten gallon fish tank or terrarium? In inches, that's usually 20" (width) x 12" (height) x 10" (depth). In centimetres, that's approximately 51cm x 31cm x 25cm
Two lizards will need a fifteen gallon tank and three to four leopard geckos will require about a twenty-gallon tank. I just did a quick ebay search and there's lots available. Love ebay!
Wire cages aren't a good idea. Unlike other geckos (the tree dwelling types), leopard geckos don't have those sticky pads on their feet and so they can't crawl up glass very easily and therefore they can't escape.
Make sure they can breathe though: the terrarium should have a wire mesh cover at the top for fresh air and circulation and to prevent escapes.
TERRARIUM TEMPERATURE
Leopard Geckos are ectothermic or cold blooded so they are not able to generate enough of their own body heat. Thus they require additional, external sources of heat. Your glass terrarium should be heated to 80 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit (26 to 30 degrees centigrade) during daytime with a basking spot of around 88 to 90 degree Fahrenheit (31 degrees to 32 degrees). Make sure there's a cooler spot too of around 70F (21C) And at night time, keep to around 70 degrees F (21c). You'll need a thermometer to check on this.
FURNITURE, LANDSCAPING AND PLANTS
This is where the fun begins! Now you can get creative and create an environment that simulates your gecko pets' natural home. I've seen some amazing constructions.
The more things for your leopard gecko to climb over and explore, the more motivation for him to move around. Although 'blinging' up your leopard gecko terrarium might seem to be the fun bit, it's also a key part of good leopard gecko care too.
Logs, rocks will make a natural living area and give him the areas for climbing and exercise. Artificial or live plants can also give your gecko more hiding spots and much natural feel, though you don't really need them. If you want to install a live plant, select them carefully as some plants can be poisonous to reptiles. Dry cactus skeletons work well.
Have a basking area (like a big rock) and a hiding area (to cool off). A basking area could be a piece of wood like a dry branch or a rock. There should be one basking area per gecko.
For the hiding spot, you can use an old cardboard box, inverted pots of clay, overlapping rocks or portions of curved barks. Like the basking area, if you have more geckos you should also have more hiding spots.
CLEANING YOUR TERRARIUM
Maintaining good hygiene is another key part of leopard gecko care. You should change the water every day and look around for any uneaten insects, mould or stagnant water pools and any other dirt. It shouldn't take more than 5-10 minutes to have a quick daily inspection. Then about once a week, have a more thorough clean out: change the substrate (floor covering), clean all around the terrarium and disinfect the water bowls. Remember that strong disinfectants and bleach can be very harmful to your leopard gecko, so take care to fully rinse every thing off with water.
There's so much more to say about leopard gecko care and creating the perfect leopard gecko habitat. I'll write more about it soon, but the key thing is to keep your terrarium clean, try to mimic a gecko's native environment (minus the hazards!!) and most of all, have fun with it! There is work to be done when you have a leopard gecko pet, but after a bit of practice it doesn't take long to clean out the terrarium and it can even be fun if you rope in one of the family or a friend! It can become your regular ritual. I've seen some very creative, stunning terrariums, so it's also a chance to exercise those creative juices!
If you're looking for a starting place to start designing a cool vivarium, here's my choice as the
Best Book On Vivarium Designs
Here's to your leopard gecko terrarium success!
GGG
The following guidelines will help you build a decent leopard gecko habitat for healthy and safe lizard living.
LEOPARD GECKO HABITAT: A GLASS TERRARIUM
Plastic or glass terrariums offer the best type of leopard gecko housing. A terrarium simply means a container that simulates or replicates the natural habitat of your reptile pet. Glass is better than plastic, but both are fine.
Ideal terrariums are shallow and long. The smallest recommended size for a single leopard gecko is ten gallons.
What are the dimensions of a ten gallon fish tank or terrarium? In inches, that's usually 20" (width) x 12" (height) x 10" (depth). In centimetres, that's approximately 51cm x 31cm x 25cm
Two lizards will need a fifteen gallon tank and three to four leopard geckos will require about a twenty-gallon tank. I just did a quick ebay search and there's lots available. Love ebay!
Wire cages aren't a good idea. Unlike other geckos (the tree dwelling types), leopard geckos don't have those sticky pads on their feet and so they can't crawl up glass very easily and therefore they can't escape.
Make sure they can breathe though: the terrarium should have a wire mesh cover at the top for fresh air and circulation and to prevent escapes.
TERRARIUM TEMPERATURE
Leopard Geckos are ectothermic or cold blooded so they are not able to generate enough of their own body heat. Thus they require additional, external sources of heat. Your glass terrarium should be heated to 80 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit (26 to 30 degrees centigrade) during daytime with a basking spot of around 88 to 90 degree Fahrenheit (31 degrees to 32 degrees). Make sure there's a cooler spot too of around 70F (21C) And at night time, keep to around 70 degrees F (21c). You'll need a thermometer to check on this.
FURNITURE, LANDSCAPING AND PLANTS
This is where the fun begins! Now you can get creative and create an environment that simulates your gecko pets' natural home. I've seen some amazing constructions.
The more things for your leopard gecko to climb over and explore, the more motivation for him to move around. Although 'blinging' up your leopard gecko terrarium might seem to be the fun bit, it's also a key part of good leopard gecko care too.
Logs, rocks will make a natural living area and give him the areas for climbing and exercise. Artificial or live plants can also give your gecko more hiding spots and much natural feel, though you don't really need them. If you want to install a live plant, select them carefully as some plants can be poisonous to reptiles. Dry cactus skeletons work well.
Have a basking area (like a big rock) and a hiding area (to cool off). A basking area could be a piece of wood like a dry branch or a rock. There should be one basking area per gecko.
For the hiding spot, you can use an old cardboard box, inverted pots of clay, overlapping rocks or portions of curved barks. Like the basking area, if you have more geckos you should also have more hiding spots.
CLEANING YOUR TERRARIUM
Maintaining good hygiene is another key part of leopard gecko care. You should change the water every day and look around for any uneaten insects, mould or stagnant water pools and any other dirt. It shouldn't take more than 5-10 minutes to have a quick daily inspection. Then about once a week, have a more thorough clean out: change the substrate (floor covering), clean all around the terrarium and disinfect the water bowls. Remember that strong disinfectants and bleach can be very harmful to your leopard gecko, so take care to fully rinse every thing off with water.
There's so much more to say about leopard gecko care and creating the perfect leopard gecko habitat. I'll write more about it soon, but the key thing is to keep your terrarium clean, try to mimic a gecko's native environment (minus the hazards!!) and most of all, have fun with it! There is work to be done when you have a leopard gecko pet, but after a bit of practice it doesn't take long to clean out the terrarium and it can even be fun if you rope in one of the family or a friend! It can become your regular ritual. I've seen some very creative, stunning terrariums, so it's also a chance to exercise those creative juices!
If you're looking for a starting place to start designing a cool vivarium, here's my choice as the
Best Book On Vivarium Designs
Here's to your leopard gecko terrarium success!
GGG
What Is A Leopard Gecko and why do they make such great pets?
What is a Leopard Gecko?
The Leopard Geckos were first named as a species specifically as Eublepharis Macularis by Edward Blyth a British Zoologist back in 1854. The name Eublepharis were derived from the Greek words “Eu” (meaning True) and blephar (meaning eyelid). Having an eyelid is what distinguishes members of this subfamily apart from other Geckos. Macularius came from the Latin word “Macula” which means “spot or blemish”, this is in reference to the leopard Geckos natural spot like markings.
Leopard Geckos are natives of Pakistan, Iran, India and Afghanistan where mostly the geographical location is dry and rocky terrain. Geckos are known to be nocturnal creatures, and are known to live under ground.
One of Leopard Geckos main characteristics is its triangular head and large tail, please note that fat is stored directly in the Gecko’s tail. A Geckos skin is patterned heavily and bumpy. Patterns are designed to hide or camouflage a Gecko from prospective danger from its predators.
Leopard Geckos make a great house pet. They are so tiny that they fit in a vivarium that uses up minimal space in your bedroom or living room. They also require less care and attention than other pets such as dogs. They are typically quiet by nature, they do not emit any bad smell or odor. Some leopard geckos do not like to be touched too often.
Leopard Geckos are also inexpensive compared to buying other exotic animals, they are also available legally from pet stores and other Gecko breeders. They come in variety of colors and pattern variations too. Thus, Leopard geckos are called as the perfect house pet.
The Leopard Geckos were first named as a species specifically as Eublepharis Macularis by Edward Blyth a British Zoologist back in 1854. The name Eublepharis were derived from the Greek words “Eu” (meaning True) and blephar (meaning eyelid). Having an eyelid is what distinguishes members of this subfamily apart from other Geckos. Macularius came from the Latin word “Macula” which means “spot or blemish”, this is in reference to the leopard Geckos natural spot like markings.
Leopard Geckos are natives of Pakistan, Iran, India and Afghanistan where mostly the geographical location is dry and rocky terrain. Geckos are known to be nocturnal creatures, and are known to live under ground.
One of Leopard Geckos main characteristics is its triangular head and large tail, please note that fat is stored directly in the Gecko’s tail. A Geckos skin is patterned heavily and bumpy. Patterns are designed to hide or camouflage a Gecko from prospective danger from its predators.
Leopard Geckos make a great house pet. They are so tiny that they fit in a vivarium that uses up minimal space in your bedroom or living room. They also require less care and attention than other pets such as dogs. They are typically quiet by nature, they do not emit any bad smell or odor. Some leopard geckos do not like to be touched too often.
Leopard Geckos are also inexpensive compared to buying other exotic animals, they are also available legally from pet stores and other Gecko breeders. They come in variety of colors and pattern variations too. Thus, Leopard geckos are called as the perfect house pet.
Ways to keep your leopard gecko happy | a happy leopard gecko is a healthy leopard gecko!!
Ways to make your Gecko happy
Here are the most basics tips in making and keeping your Leopard Gecko pets happy.
Always give them enough space. Do not overcrowd your Geckos. A space of 10 to 15 Gallon capacity is only good for one Gecko. While 15 to 20 Gallon capacity can accommodate at least two mature Geckos. Never put together 2 dominant Male Geckos in a same cage, to avoid fighting and eventually injuring each other.
Do not pick your Gecko by its tail. A Leopard Geckos tail is prone to falling off, it is basically their automatic response to any threat (i.e. predators attack). Although, their tail will definitely grow back, the new tail will not look like the first one that it replaced.
Geckos are known to be a solitary creature, as much as possible avoid touching them too often.
Do not use a substrate that will be hard for your pet to digest. Don't ever house them on sand no matter what people tell you.
Always, make your Geckos drinking bowl clean. Change it about once a day. Also, avoid putting the feeders near its drinking bowl to avoid contamination.
And make sure that you clean your Geckos habitat and wash your hands before and after handling and a leopard gecko too.
With these tips, we are sure that your Gecko will live longer and a much happier life.
Here are the most basics tips in making and keeping your Leopard Gecko pets happy.
Always give them enough space. Do not overcrowd your Geckos. A space of 10 to 15 Gallon capacity is only good for one Gecko. While 15 to 20 Gallon capacity can accommodate at least two mature Geckos. Never put together 2 dominant Male Geckos in a same cage, to avoid fighting and eventually injuring each other.
Do not pick your Gecko by its tail. A Leopard Geckos tail is prone to falling off, it is basically their automatic response to any threat (i.e. predators attack). Although, their tail will definitely grow back, the new tail will not look like the first one that it replaced.
Geckos are known to be a solitary creature, as much as possible avoid touching them too often.
Do not use a substrate that will be hard for your pet to digest. Don't ever house them on sand no matter what people tell you.
Always, make your Geckos drinking bowl clean. Change it about once a day. Also, avoid putting the feeders near its drinking bowl to avoid contamination.
And make sure that you clean your Geckos habitat and wash your hands before and after handling and a leopard gecko too.
With these tips, we are sure that your Gecko will live longer and a much happier life.
Leopard gecko breeding | how to successfully breed leopard geckos
How to breed your Geckos
Leopard Gecko breeding
Breeding leopard geckos is not a difficult task. It is not uncommon for a new breeder to have success on the first attempt. You often only need a healthy male and female leopard gecko to get fertile eggs.
Breeding age
Leopard Geckos grows quickly and are mature at about one year old. Males will be ready to breed much sooner than females. Female Geckos should be about two years old to breed. The eggs are quite large and laying them can be difficult for a young female. Breeding a female too young can hurt its growth.
Mating and egg laying
Most mating and egg laying is in late winter or early spring. The male will bite her on the back of the neck, line up their vents and will mate with the female. The leopard gecko eggs will develop in pairs. As the eggs grow, you will notice her gain weight and can see them through the belly skin. When the female is ready for egg laying, she will dig a hole, lay her eggs, and bury them. Scattered substrate is a good sign the gecko has laid her eggs. You will want to remove them soon after to prevent them from drying out. Do not change the position of the eggs when you remove them.
Egg container
Leopard Gecko eggs are not rigid or hard. The eggs will expand and grow. You will need to provide the right incubation and moisture for this to occur. Place the eggs in a container with 2 to 3 inches of medium. The eggs should be buried about halfway. The container can be any clear plastic container with a few holes for circulation. The medium can be vermiculite, sand, or peat moss. Vermiculite works best for controlling moisture. The medium should be damp, not wet. You should not be able to squeeze any water out of the medium. Moisture content is important. Too much and the eggs develop fungus. Too little and they dry out. If the medium dries out during incubation, you may need to add water one drop at a time.
Incubating the eggs
Incubating the Leopard Gecko eggs in an incubator is the most reliable. An incubator will keep the temperature at a consistent level. Styrofoam incubators are inexpensive and worth the money. They can hold many eggs in deli cups and usually come with a large window. This allows you to check on the gecko eggs without opening it and disturbing the heat level. Temperature is import during incubation. The sex of the gecko is determined by the temperature. Eggs incubated warmer produce more males. 78 to 80 F. will produce mostly females. 88 to 92 F. will produce mostly males. Below 75 and above 95 F. can kill the eggs. Eggs will hatch within 6 to 12 weeks depending on temperature. Warmer gecko eggs will hatch sooner.
Leopard Gecko breeding
Breeding leopard geckos is not a difficult task. It is not uncommon for a new breeder to have success on the first attempt. You often only need a healthy male and female leopard gecko to get fertile eggs.
Breeding age
Leopard Geckos grows quickly and are mature at about one year old. Males will be ready to breed much sooner than females. Female Geckos should be about two years old to breed. The eggs are quite large and laying them can be difficult for a young female. Breeding a female too young can hurt its growth.
Mating and egg laying
Most mating and egg laying is in late winter or early spring. The male will bite her on the back of the neck, line up their vents and will mate with the female. The leopard gecko eggs will develop in pairs. As the eggs grow, you will notice her gain weight and can see them through the belly skin. When the female is ready for egg laying, she will dig a hole, lay her eggs, and bury them. Scattered substrate is a good sign the gecko has laid her eggs. You will want to remove them soon after to prevent them from drying out. Do not change the position of the eggs when you remove them.
Egg container
Leopard Gecko eggs are not rigid or hard. The eggs will expand and grow. You will need to provide the right incubation and moisture for this to occur. Place the eggs in a container with 2 to 3 inches of medium. The eggs should be buried about halfway. The container can be any clear plastic container with a few holes for circulation. The medium can be vermiculite, sand, or peat moss. Vermiculite works best for controlling moisture. The medium should be damp, not wet. You should not be able to squeeze any water out of the medium. Moisture content is important. Too much and the eggs develop fungus. Too little and they dry out. If the medium dries out during incubation, you may need to add water one drop at a time.
Incubating the eggs
Incubating the Leopard Gecko eggs in an incubator is the most reliable. An incubator will keep the temperature at a consistent level. Styrofoam incubators are inexpensive and worth the money. They can hold many eggs in deli cups and usually come with a large window. This allows you to check on the gecko eggs without opening it and disturbing the heat level. Temperature is import during incubation. The sex of the gecko is determined by the temperature. Eggs incubated warmer produce more males. 78 to 80 F. will produce mostly females. 88 to 92 F. will produce mostly males. Below 75 and above 95 F. can kill the eggs. Eggs will hatch within 6 to 12 weeks depending on temperature. Warmer gecko eggs will hatch sooner.
Leopard gecko illnesses
Typical sickness or illness of a Leopard Gecko
Healthy leopard geckos
Leopard Geckos can live a long time with good nutrition and proper care. It is not uncommon for a Gecko to live twenty or more years. Even with a good habitat and diet, illness can still occur. You should find a veterinarian who has experience with reptiles and exotic animals before a health problem arises.
Below are guides to some of the more common health issues that face Leopard Geckos.
Digestive Tract Obstruction
This occurs when a gecko eats something it is unable to digest. The obstructions can be sand, gravel, or substrate that the leopard gecko ingested. Whatever it ate can form a blockage that can be fatal. You should always make sure that the substrate in the cage is small enough to be easily passed by the gecko if consumed.
Calcium Deficiencies
If a leopard gecko does not get enough calcium in it’s diet, it may eat substrate to try to ingest calcium. If it eats too much, a blockage can be formed. The easist form of prevention is to keep a dish of calcium in the cage at all times. Calcium supplements are readily available at most pet stores.
Mouth Infection
Mouth infections can occur. It can be caused by fighting, a dirty cage, or accidental injury. A sign of infection is swelling around your leopard gecko’s mouth. Treatment involves cleaning the area daily and possibly using an oral antibiotic.
Respiratory Infection
A respiratory infection can occur if your leopard gecko’s habitat is too cold for long periods. Mucus bubbles on the nostrils and labored breathing is a sign of infection. Increasing the temperature of the cage will usually correct the health problem.
Injuries
If you keep a group of geckos together, fighting may occur and lead to injury. To prevent fighting do not keep more than one male leopard gecko in a cage. Two males together will fight. Do not overcrowd your geckos. Make sure there are enough hiding places for each one. If you see one gecko hiding more than the others, it may need to be moved to a separate cage. The others may be picking on it.
Healthy leopard geckos
Leopard Geckos can live a long time with good nutrition and proper care. It is not uncommon for a Gecko to live twenty or more years. Even with a good habitat and diet, illness can still occur. You should find a veterinarian who has experience with reptiles and exotic animals before a health problem arises.
Below are guides to some of the more common health issues that face Leopard Geckos.
Digestive Tract Obstruction
This occurs when a gecko eats something it is unable to digest. The obstructions can be sand, gravel, or substrate that the leopard gecko ingested. Whatever it ate can form a blockage that can be fatal. You should always make sure that the substrate in the cage is small enough to be easily passed by the gecko if consumed.
Calcium Deficiencies
If a leopard gecko does not get enough calcium in it’s diet, it may eat substrate to try to ingest calcium. If it eats too much, a blockage can be formed. The easist form of prevention is to keep a dish of calcium in the cage at all times. Calcium supplements are readily available at most pet stores.
Mouth Infection
Mouth infections can occur. It can be caused by fighting, a dirty cage, or accidental injury. A sign of infection is swelling around your leopard gecko’s mouth. Treatment involves cleaning the area daily and possibly using an oral antibiotic.
Respiratory Infection
A respiratory infection can occur if your leopard gecko’s habitat is too cold for long periods. Mucus bubbles on the nostrils and labored breathing is a sign of infection. Increasing the temperature of the cage will usually correct the health problem.
Injuries
If you keep a group of geckos together, fighting may occur and lead to injury. To prevent fighting do not keep more than one male leopard gecko in a cage. Two males together will fight. Do not overcrowd your geckos. Make sure there are enough hiding places for each one. If you see one gecko hiding more than the others, it may need to be moved to a separate cage. The others may be picking on it.
Can't get enough? Other popular types of geckos
Other popular types of a Gecko
African Fat Tailed Geckos (Hemitheconyx Caudicinctus)
Hemitheconyx Caudicinctus, commonly known as the African Fat-tailed Gecko, is a nocturnal, ground-dwelling gecko.
The Fat-tailed gecko is from the subfamily Eublepharinae. Members of this subfamily include the leopard gecko of Iran. This subfamily has clearly different characteristics from other geckos. They are terrestrial, nocturnal, have moveable eyelids, have vertical pupils, and no adhesive lamellae (sticky feet).
The Fat-tailed gecko is found in West Africa, from Senegal to Cameroon. Their habitat is dry and arid, although they will spend most of their time in a dark, humid hiding place.
The Fat-tailed gecko will grow to be 6 to 10 inches. Females being 6 to 8 inches, and males being 8 to 10 inches. They will live 15 to 20 years. The normal coloring is brown and tan stripes, with a possible thin white stripe along the length of the back. The under belly is pale pink or off-white.
The Fat-tailed gecko is equipped with the natural defense of being able to lose their tails when attacked by a predator. The tail is also where they store their fat, an important energy reserve. If the tail is lost the new tail will look more similar to the head (fat and stubby), and may not match the coloration patterns of the body of the gecko. With its tail, an African fat tailed gecko can go days on end without food.
Flat-tailed Geckos (Genus Uroplatus)
There are few reptile genera that can boast more bizarre-looking species than the genus Uroplatus (Flat-tailed geckos). The largest member, Uroplatus fimbiratus, opens its mouth so wide during its threat display, it looks like it has a flip-top head, invoking images of childhood pez dispensers. One of the smaller members, Uroplatus phantasticus, has a morphology that so closely resembles a dead leaf, its tail even has irregular patches missing from the margin to simulate decay. The entire genus is endemic to Madagascar and contains a total of 9 species including Uroplatus fimbriatus, U. phantasticus, U. ebenaui, U. lineatus, U. sikorae, U. henkeli U. alluaudi, U. guentheri and the recently described U. malahelo. As this genus is generally found only in primary, undisturbed Madagascar forests, it is quite possible that more species will be discovered as more research efforts are directed at cataloguing Madagascar's native reptiles. Unfortunately, these magnificent geckos, and many other Malagasy natives, are plagued by extensive habitat disturbance as the primary forests are cut down to make way for agriculture and livestock. It is estimated that if deforestation continues at its present rate, only small patches of primary forest will remain in Madagascar by the year 2020 (Glaw and Vences, 1994). Many members of this genus have been reproduced in captivity, but not in enough numbers to supply the demand of the pet trade, so many Uroplatus species are still exported. With the strong threat of population decline through habitat loss, herpetoculturists should be encouraged to set-up and maintain viable colonies of this genus to relieve some of the collection pressure off of wild populations.
African Fat Tailed Geckos (Hemitheconyx Caudicinctus)
Hemitheconyx Caudicinctus, commonly known as the African Fat-tailed Gecko, is a nocturnal, ground-dwelling gecko.
The Fat-tailed gecko is from the subfamily Eublepharinae. Members of this subfamily include the leopard gecko of Iran. This subfamily has clearly different characteristics from other geckos. They are terrestrial, nocturnal, have moveable eyelids, have vertical pupils, and no adhesive lamellae (sticky feet).
The Fat-tailed gecko is found in West Africa, from Senegal to Cameroon. Their habitat is dry and arid, although they will spend most of their time in a dark, humid hiding place.
The Fat-tailed gecko will grow to be 6 to 10 inches. Females being 6 to 8 inches, and males being 8 to 10 inches. They will live 15 to 20 years. The normal coloring is brown and tan stripes, with a possible thin white stripe along the length of the back. The under belly is pale pink or off-white.
The Fat-tailed gecko is equipped with the natural defense of being able to lose their tails when attacked by a predator. The tail is also where they store their fat, an important energy reserve. If the tail is lost the new tail will look more similar to the head (fat and stubby), and may not match the coloration patterns of the body of the gecko. With its tail, an African fat tailed gecko can go days on end without food.
Flat-tailed Geckos (Genus Uroplatus)
There are few reptile genera that can boast more bizarre-looking species than the genus Uroplatus (Flat-tailed geckos). The largest member, Uroplatus fimbiratus, opens its mouth so wide during its threat display, it looks like it has a flip-top head, invoking images of childhood pez dispensers. One of the smaller members, Uroplatus phantasticus, has a morphology that so closely resembles a dead leaf, its tail even has irregular patches missing from the margin to simulate decay. The entire genus is endemic to Madagascar and contains a total of 9 species including Uroplatus fimbriatus, U. phantasticus, U. ebenaui, U. lineatus, U. sikorae, U. henkeli U. alluaudi, U. guentheri and the recently described U. malahelo. As this genus is generally found only in primary, undisturbed Madagascar forests, it is quite possible that more species will be discovered as more research efforts are directed at cataloguing Madagascar's native reptiles. Unfortunately, these magnificent geckos, and many other Malagasy natives, are plagued by extensive habitat disturbance as the primary forests are cut down to make way for agriculture and livestock. It is estimated that if deforestation continues at its present rate, only small patches of primary forest will remain in Madagascar by the year 2020 (Glaw and Vences, 1994). Many members of this genus have been reproduced in captivity, but not in enough numbers to supply the demand of the pet trade, so many Uroplatus species are still exported. With the strong threat of population decline through habitat loss, herpetoculturists should be encouraged to set-up and maintain viable colonies of this genus to relieve some of the collection pressure off of wild populations.
What should I feed my leopard gecko?
What should I feed my Gecko?
Leopard Geckos eats insects. The most common insects available commercially are crickets, mealworms, super worms, wax worms and silk worms. If you use crickets and mealworms as the primary food and wax worms as treats, you should have a happy Gecko.
Crickets
Crickets are a good source of food and nutrition in your Leopard Gecko’s diet. You should “gut load” your crickets before feeding them to your Gecko. “Gut loading” is making sure the crickets are well fed. This way they pass the maximum amount of nutrients to your Gecko. You can feed the crickets’ commercial cricket food and liquid or just use a piece of potato and some oats. Crickets are very resourceful and are sometimes difficult for the Gecko to catch. If this is the case, you may have to remove the rear jumping legs of the cricket. It is always a good idea to leave a small piece of potato, carrot, or apple for the crickets to eat. The food will also draw out the crickets and make them easier to catch.
Mealworms and wax worms
Mealworms are another good food source for your Gecko. Feeding your Gecko mealworms is also a much easier task since they can be placed in a bowl. The bowl must be smooth to prevent escape. This way the mealworms are available whenever your Gecko is hungry. Leopard Geckos likes wax worms, but the worms are too fatty to be a part of the main diet. Wax worms makes an excellent treat and are a good way to fatten up a female after she has laid eggs.
Supplementing the diet
Vitamin and mineral supplements are an important part of your Leopard Gecko’s diet. Calcium is the most important mineral and should be available to your Gecko at all times by placing a dish with calcium powder in the cage. The feeder insects should also be coated with calcium powder prior to feeding. For adult Geckos coat the insects 1 to 2 times per week. For babies, juveniles, and breeding females coat the insects daily. Vitamins are also a necessary part of the gecko diet, but should be used sparingly and not on the same day as calcium. Feeder insects should be coated with vitamins once every 7 to 10 days. To coat the insects place them in a bag or cup with the vitamin or mineral powder. Shake the container around until all the insects are dusted with powder.
Geckos need water
Your Leopard Gecko needs water so keep a shallow dish with water in the cage. Water dishes that are too deep tend to trap and drown crickets, wasting the insect and fouling the water. It is best to use a dish that is shallow in order to give the insect a better chance of escape. You should clean the dish every few day to help prevent bacteria and fungus from growing.
Hope you've enjoyed these feeding tips!
As always...here's to your leopard gecko care success!!
Leopard Geckos eats insects. The most common insects available commercially are crickets, mealworms, super worms, wax worms and silk worms. If you use crickets and mealworms as the primary food and wax worms as treats, you should have a happy Gecko.
Crickets
Crickets are a good source of food and nutrition in your Leopard Gecko’s diet. You should “gut load” your crickets before feeding them to your Gecko. “Gut loading” is making sure the crickets are well fed. This way they pass the maximum amount of nutrients to your Gecko. You can feed the crickets’ commercial cricket food and liquid or just use a piece of potato and some oats. Crickets are very resourceful and are sometimes difficult for the Gecko to catch. If this is the case, you may have to remove the rear jumping legs of the cricket. It is always a good idea to leave a small piece of potato, carrot, or apple for the crickets to eat. The food will also draw out the crickets and make them easier to catch.
Mealworms and wax worms
Mealworms are another good food source for your Gecko. Feeding your Gecko mealworms is also a much easier task since they can be placed in a bowl. The bowl must be smooth to prevent escape. This way the mealworms are available whenever your Gecko is hungry. Leopard Geckos likes wax worms, but the worms are too fatty to be a part of the main diet. Wax worms makes an excellent treat and are a good way to fatten up a female after she has laid eggs.
Supplementing the diet
Vitamin and mineral supplements are an important part of your Leopard Gecko’s diet. Calcium is the most important mineral and should be available to your Gecko at all times by placing a dish with calcium powder in the cage. The feeder insects should also be coated with calcium powder prior to feeding. For adult Geckos coat the insects 1 to 2 times per week. For babies, juveniles, and breeding females coat the insects daily. Vitamins are also a necessary part of the gecko diet, but should be used sparingly and not on the same day as calcium. Feeder insects should be coated with vitamins once every 7 to 10 days. To coat the insects place them in a bag or cup with the vitamin or mineral powder. Shake the container around until all the insects are dusted with powder.
Geckos need water
Your Leopard Gecko needs water so keep a shallow dish with water in the cage. Water dishes that are too deep tend to trap and drown crickets, wasting the insect and fouling the water. It is best to use a dish that is shallow in order to give the insect a better chance of escape. You should clean the dish every few day to help prevent bacteria and fungus from growing.
Hope you've enjoyed these feeding tips!
As always...here's to your leopard gecko care success!!
Creating the proper habitat for your leopard gecko
How to create a proper habitat for your Gecko
Leopard Geckos are the easiest pets to care for. But, it is important to set up properly its habitat.
An ideal vivarium for a Leopard Gecko is from 10-15 gallon capacity. It is not ideal to use wire cages. They must live in vivarium that is made of glass (for their security and to avoid losing them). But unlike other Geckos, Leopard Geckos can’t climb in glass. However, its vivarium must have a wire mesh cover to give proper exposure to air and allows light to go through.
The things that you place inside the cage of your leopard gecko will facilitate in making his environment as natural as possible. Items like logs, rocks will make a normal living area and give them the climbing space areas for exercise. Artificial or live plants can also help in giving your Gecko more hiding spots and a much natural feel. If you want to utilize a live plant, select them carefully as some plants can be poisonous to reptiles.
You have to remember three things in making a leopard gecko habitat. It must be good for activity, basking and hiding. Activity spots must be an open area where the Gecko can exercise, climb and simply move around freely. While for the basking area, it must be a smooth or flat wood or rock underneath a light. And it should be one area for each Gecko. Therefore if you have more Geckos, you must provide them with a bigger/wider basking area .
For the hiding spot, these can consist of commercial boxes, inverted pots of clay, overlapping rocks or portions of curved barks. Like the basking area, if you have more Geckos you must also have more hiding spots.
Leopard Geckos are known to be ectothermic which means that they are not able to make their own body heat thus they require additional sources of heat. The vivarium of your Gecko must be about 80 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit during daytime and the basking spot must be about 88 to 90 degree Fahrenheit. At night, the temperature must be 70 degrees.
If you are unsure of your vivariums temperature use a thermometer (for a more accurate reading of temperature).
Lastly, it is important that you maintain your vivarium clean. It is necessary that you eliminate the debris, waste, shed skin and dead feeder insects. You also have to clean the objects that have fecal substance in them. Disinfect and clean the water bowls as often as you can.
Leopard Geckos are the easiest pets to care for. But, it is important to set up properly its habitat.
An ideal vivarium for a Leopard Gecko is from 10-15 gallon capacity. It is not ideal to use wire cages. They must live in vivarium that is made of glass (for their security and to avoid losing them). But unlike other Geckos, Leopard Geckos can’t climb in glass. However, its vivarium must have a wire mesh cover to give proper exposure to air and allows light to go through.
The things that you place inside the cage of your leopard gecko will facilitate in making his environment as natural as possible. Items like logs, rocks will make a normal living area and give them the climbing space areas for exercise. Artificial or live plants can also help in giving your Gecko more hiding spots and a much natural feel. If you want to utilize a live plant, select them carefully as some plants can be poisonous to reptiles.
You have to remember three things in making a leopard gecko habitat. It must be good for activity, basking and hiding. Activity spots must be an open area where the Gecko can exercise, climb and simply move around freely. While for the basking area, it must be a smooth or flat wood or rock underneath a light. And it should be one area for each Gecko. Therefore if you have more Geckos, you must provide them with a bigger/wider basking area .
For the hiding spot, these can consist of commercial boxes, inverted pots of clay, overlapping rocks or portions of curved barks. Like the basking area, if you have more Geckos you must also have more hiding spots.
Leopard Geckos are known to be ectothermic which means that they are not able to make their own body heat thus they require additional sources of heat. The vivarium of your Gecko must be about 80 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit during daytime and the basking spot must be about 88 to 90 degree Fahrenheit. At night, the temperature must be 70 degrees.
If you are unsure of your vivariums temperature use a thermometer (for a more accurate reading of temperature).
Lastly, it is important that you maintain your vivarium clean. It is necessary that you eliminate the debris, waste, shed skin and dead feeder insects. You also have to clean the objects that have fecal substance in them. Disinfect and clean the water bowls as often as you can.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
