How to breed your Geckos
Leopard Gecko breeding
Breeding leopard geckos is not a difficult task. It is not uncommon for a new breeder to have success on the first attempt. You often only need a healthy male and female leopard gecko to get fertile eggs.
Breeding age
Leopard Geckos grows quickly and are mature at about one year old. Males will be ready to breed much sooner than females. Female Geckos should be about two years old to breed. The eggs are quite large and laying them can be difficult for a young female. Breeding a female too young can hurt its growth.
Mating and egg laying
Most mating and egg laying is in late winter or early spring. The male will bite her on the back of the neck, line up their vents and will mate with the female. The leopard gecko eggs will develop in pairs. As the eggs grow, you will notice her gain weight and can see them through the belly skin. When the female is ready for egg laying, she will dig a hole, lay her eggs, and bury them. Scattered substrate is a good sign the gecko has laid her eggs. You will want to remove them soon after to prevent them from drying out. Do not change the position of the eggs when you remove them.
Egg container
Leopard Gecko eggs are not rigid or hard. The eggs will expand and grow. You will need to provide the right incubation and moisture for this to occur. Place the eggs in a container with 2 to 3 inches of medium. The eggs should be buried about halfway. The container can be any clear plastic container with a few holes for circulation. The medium can be vermiculite, sand, or peat moss. Vermiculite works best for controlling moisture. The medium should be damp, not wet. You should not be able to squeeze any water out of the medium. Moisture content is important. Too much and the eggs develop fungus. Too little and they dry out. If the medium dries out during incubation, you may need to add water one drop at a time.
Incubating the eggs
Incubating the Leopard Gecko eggs in an incubator is the most reliable. An incubator will keep the temperature at a consistent level. Styrofoam incubators are inexpensive and worth the money. They can hold many eggs in deli cups and usually come with a large window. This allows you to check on the gecko eggs without opening it and disturbing the heat level. Temperature is import during incubation. The sex of the gecko is determined by the temperature. Eggs incubated warmer produce more males. 78 to 80 F. will produce mostly females. 88 to 92 F. will produce mostly males. Below 75 and above 95 F. can kill the eggs. Eggs will hatch within 6 to 12 weeks depending on temperature. Warmer gecko eggs will hatch sooner.
Leopard gecko illnesses
Typical sickness or illness of a Leopard Gecko
Healthy leopard geckos
Leopard Geckos can live a long time with good nutrition and proper care. It is not uncommon for a Gecko to live twenty or more years. Even with a good habitat and diet, illness can still occur. You should find a veterinarian who has experience with reptiles and exotic animals before a health problem arises.
Below are guides to some of the more common health issues that face Leopard Geckos.
Digestive Tract Obstruction
This occurs when a gecko eats something it is unable to digest. The obstructions can be sand, gravel, or substrate that the leopard gecko ingested. Whatever it ate can form a blockage that can be fatal. You should always make sure that the substrate in the cage is small enough to be easily passed by the gecko if consumed.
Calcium Deficiencies
If a leopard gecko does not get enough calcium in it’s diet, it may eat substrate to try to ingest calcium. If it eats too much, a blockage can be formed. The easist form of prevention is to keep a dish of calcium in the cage at all times. Calcium supplements are readily available at most pet stores.
Mouth Infection
Mouth infections can occur. It can be caused by fighting, a dirty cage, or accidental injury. A sign of infection is swelling around your leopard gecko’s mouth. Treatment involves cleaning the area daily and possibly using an oral antibiotic.
Respiratory Infection
A respiratory infection can occur if your leopard gecko’s habitat is too cold for long periods. Mucus bubbles on the nostrils and labored breathing is a sign of infection. Increasing the temperature of the cage will usually correct the health problem.
Injuries
If you keep a group of geckos together, fighting may occur and lead to injury. To prevent fighting do not keep more than one male leopard gecko in a cage. Two males together will fight. Do not overcrowd your geckos. Make sure there are enough hiding places for each one. If you see one gecko hiding more than the others, it may need to be moved to a separate cage. The others may be picking on it.
Healthy leopard geckos
Leopard Geckos can live a long time with good nutrition and proper care. It is not uncommon for a Gecko to live twenty or more years. Even with a good habitat and diet, illness can still occur. You should find a veterinarian who has experience with reptiles and exotic animals before a health problem arises.
Below are guides to some of the more common health issues that face Leopard Geckos.
Digestive Tract Obstruction
This occurs when a gecko eats something it is unable to digest. The obstructions can be sand, gravel, or substrate that the leopard gecko ingested. Whatever it ate can form a blockage that can be fatal. You should always make sure that the substrate in the cage is small enough to be easily passed by the gecko if consumed.
Calcium Deficiencies
If a leopard gecko does not get enough calcium in it’s diet, it may eat substrate to try to ingest calcium. If it eats too much, a blockage can be formed. The easist form of prevention is to keep a dish of calcium in the cage at all times. Calcium supplements are readily available at most pet stores.
Mouth Infection
Mouth infections can occur. It can be caused by fighting, a dirty cage, or accidental injury. A sign of infection is swelling around your leopard gecko’s mouth. Treatment involves cleaning the area daily and possibly using an oral antibiotic.
Respiratory Infection
A respiratory infection can occur if your leopard gecko’s habitat is too cold for long periods. Mucus bubbles on the nostrils and labored breathing is a sign of infection. Increasing the temperature of the cage will usually correct the health problem.
Injuries
If you keep a group of geckos together, fighting may occur and lead to injury. To prevent fighting do not keep more than one male leopard gecko in a cage. Two males together will fight. Do not overcrowd your geckos. Make sure there are enough hiding places for each one. If you see one gecko hiding more than the others, it may need to be moved to a separate cage. The others may be picking on it.
Can't get enough? Other popular types of geckos
Other popular types of a Gecko
African Fat Tailed Geckos (Hemitheconyx Caudicinctus)
Hemitheconyx Caudicinctus, commonly known as the African Fat-tailed Gecko, is a nocturnal, ground-dwelling gecko.
The Fat-tailed gecko is from the subfamily Eublepharinae. Members of this subfamily include the leopard gecko of Iran. This subfamily has clearly different characteristics from other geckos. They are terrestrial, nocturnal, have moveable eyelids, have vertical pupils, and no adhesive lamellae (sticky feet).
The Fat-tailed gecko is found in West Africa, from Senegal to Cameroon. Their habitat is dry and arid, although they will spend most of their time in a dark, humid hiding place.
The Fat-tailed gecko will grow to be 6 to 10 inches. Females being 6 to 8 inches, and males being 8 to 10 inches. They will live 15 to 20 years. The normal coloring is brown and tan stripes, with a possible thin white stripe along the length of the back. The under belly is pale pink or off-white.
The Fat-tailed gecko is equipped with the natural defense of being able to lose their tails when attacked by a predator. The tail is also where they store their fat, an important energy reserve. If the tail is lost the new tail will look more similar to the head (fat and stubby), and may not match the coloration patterns of the body of the gecko. With its tail, an African fat tailed gecko can go days on end without food.
Flat-tailed Geckos (Genus Uroplatus)
There are few reptile genera that can boast more bizarre-looking species than the genus Uroplatus (Flat-tailed geckos). The largest member, Uroplatus fimbiratus, opens its mouth so wide during its threat display, it looks like it has a flip-top head, invoking images of childhood pez dispensers. One of the smaller members, Uroplatus phantasticus, has a morphology that so closely resembles a dead leaf, its tail even has irregular patches missing from the margin to simulate decay. The entire genus is endemic to Madagascar and contains a total of 9 species including Uroplatus fimbriatus, U. phantasticus, U. ebenaui, U. lineatus, U. sikorae, U. henkeli U. alluaudi, U. guentheri and the recently described U. malahelo. As this genus is generally found only in primary, undisturbed Madagascar forests, it is quite possible that more species will be discovered as more research efforts are directed at cataloguing Madagascar's native reptiles. Unfortunately, these magnificent geckos, and many other Malagasy natives, are plagued by extensive habitat disturbance as the primary forests are cut down to make way for agriculture and livestock. It is estimated that if deforestation continues at its present rate, only small patches of primary forest will remain in Madagascar by the year 2020 (Glaw and Vences, 1994). Many members of this genus have been reproduced in captivity, but not in enough numbers to supply the demand of the pet trade, so many Uroplatus species are still exported. With the strong threat of population decline through habitat loss, herpetoculturists should be encouraged to set-up and maintain viable colonies of this genus to relieve some of the collection pressure off of wild populations.
African Fat Tailed Geckos (Hemitheconyx Caudicinctus)
Hemitheconyx Caudicinctus, commonly known as the African Fat-tailed Gecko, is a nocturnal, ground-dwelling gecko.
The Fat-tailed gecko is from the subfamily Eublepharinae. Members of this subfamily include the leopard gecko of Iran. This subfamily has clearly different characteristics from other geckos. They are terrestrial, nocturnal, have moveable eyelids, have vertical pupils, and no adhesive lamellae (sticky feet).
The Fat-tailed gecko is found in West Africa, from Senegal to Cameroon. Their habitat is dry and arid, although they will spend most of their time in a dark, humid hiding place.
The Fat-tailed gecko will grow to be 6 to 10 inches. Females being 6 to 8 inches, and males being 8 to 10 inches. They will live 15 to 20 years. The normal coloring is brown and tan stripes, with a possible thin white stripe along the length of the back. The under belly is pale pink or off-white.
The Fat-tailed gecko is equipped with the natural defense of being able to lose their tails when attacked by a predator. The tail is also where they store their fat, an important energy reserve. If the tail is lost the new tail will look more similar to the head (fat and stubby), and may not match the coloration patterns of the body of the gecko. With its tail, an African fat tailed gecko can go days on end without food.
Flat-tailed Geckos (Genus Uroplatus)
There are few reptile genera that can boast more bizarre-looking species than the genus Uroplatus (Flat-tailed geckos). The largest member, Uroplatus fimbiratus, opens its mouth so wide during its threat display, it looks like it has a flip-top head, invoking images of childhood pez dispensers. One of the smaller members, Uroplatus phantasticus, has a morphology that so closely resembles a dead leaf, its tail even has irregular patches missing from the margin to simulate decay. The entire genus is endemic to Madagascar and contains a total of 9 species including Uroplatus fimbriatus, U. phantasticus, U. ebenaui, U. lineatus, U. sikorae, U. henkeli U. alluaudi, U. guentheri and the recently described U. malahelo. As this genus is generally found only in primary, undisturbed Madagascar forests, it is quite possible that more species will be discovered as more research efforts are directed at cataloguing Madagascar's native reptiles. Unfortunately, these magnificent geckos, and many other Malagasy natives, are plagued by extensive habitat disturbance as the primary forests are cut down to make way for agriculture and livestock. It is estimated that if deforestation continues at its present rate, only small patches of primary forest will remain in Madagascar by the year 2020 (Glaw and Vences, 1994). Many members of this genus have been reproduced in captivity, but not in enough numbers to supply the demand of the pet trade, so many Uroplatus species are still exported. With the strong threat of population decline through habitat loss, herpetoculturists should be encouraged to set-up and maintain viable colonies of this genus to relieve some of the collection pressure off of wild populations.
What should I feed my leopard gecko?
What should I feed my Gecko?
Leopard Geckos eats insects. The most common insects available commercially are crickets, mealworms, super worms, wax worms and silk worms. If you use crickets and mealworms as the primary food and wax worms as treats, you should have a happy Gecko.
Crickets
Crickets are a good source of food and nutrition in your Leopard Gecko’s diet. You should “gut load” your crickets before feeding them to your Gecko. “Gut loading” is making sure the crickets are well fed. This way they pass the maximum amount of nutrients to your Gecko. You can feed the crickets’ commercial cricket food and liquid or just use a piece of potato and some oats. Crickets are very resourceful and are sometimes difficult for the Gecko to catch. If this is the case, you may have to remove the rear jumping legs of the cricket. It is always a good idea to leave a small piece of potato, carrot, or apple for the crickets to eat. The food will also draw out the crickets and make them easier to catch.
Mealworms and wax worms
Mealworms are another good food source for your Gecko. Feeding your Gecko mealworms is also a much easier task since they can be placed in a bowl. The bowl must be smooth to prevent escape. This way the mealworms are available whenever your Gecko is hungry. Leopard Geckos likes wax worms, but the worms are too fatty to be a part of the main diet. Wax worms makes an excellent treat and are a good way to fatten up a female after she has laid eggs.
Supplementing the diet
Vitamin and mineral supplements are an important part of your Leopard Gecko’s diet. Calcium is the most important mineral and should be available to your Gecko at all times by placing a dish with calcium powder in the cage. The feeder insects should also be coated with calcium powder prior to feeding. For adult Geckos coat the insects 1 to 2 times per week. For babies, juveniles, and breeding females coat the insects daily. Vitamins are also a necessary part of the gecko diet, but should be used sparingly and not on the same day as calcium. Feeder insects should be coated with vitamins once every 7 to 10 days. To coat the insects place them in a bag or cup with the vitamin or mineral powder. Shake the container around until all the insects are dusted with powder.
Geckos need water
Your Leopard Gecko needs water so keep a shallow dish with water in the cage. Water dishes that are too deep tend to trap and drown crickets, wasting the insect and fouling the water. It is best to use a dish that is shallow in order to give the insect a better chance of escape. You should clean the dish every few day to help prevent bacteria and fungus from growing.
Hope you've enjoyed these feeding tips!
As always...here's to your leopard gecko care success!!
Leopard Geckos eats insects. The most common insects available commercially are crickets, mealworms, super worms, wax worms and silk worms. If you use crickets and mealworms as the primary food and wax worms as treats, you should have a happy Gecko.
Crickets
Crickets are a good source of food and nutrition in your Leopard Gecko’s diet. You should “gut load” your crickets before feeding them to your Gecko. “Gut loading” is making sure the crickets are well fed. This way they pass the maximum amount of nutrients to your Gecko. You can feed the crickets’ commercial cricket food and liquid or just use a piece of potato and some oats. Crickets are very resourceful and are sometimes difficult for the Gecko to catch. If this is the case, you may have to remove the rear jumping legs of the cricket. It is always a good idea to leave a small piece of potato, carrot, or apple for the crickets to eat. The food will also draw out the crickets and make them easier to catch.
Mealworms and wax worms
Mealworms are another good food source for your Gecko. Feeding your Gecko mealworms is also a much easier task since they can be placed in a bowl. The bowl must be smooth to prevent escape. This way the mealworms are available whenever your Gecko is hungry. Leopard Geckos likes wax worms, but the worms are too fatty to be a part of the main diet. Wax worms makes an excellent treat and are a good way to fatten up a female after she has laid eggs.
Supplementing the diet
Vitamin and mineral supplements are an important part of your Leopard Gecko’s diet. Calcium is the most important mineral and should be available to your Gecko at all times by placing a dish with calcium powder in the cage. The feeder insects should also be coated with calcium powder prior to feeding. For adult Geckos coat the insects 1 to 2 times per week. For babies, juveniles, and breeding females coat the insects daily. Vitamins are also a necessary part of the gecko diet, but should be used sparingly and not on the same day as calcium. Feeder insects should be coated with vitamins once every 7 to 10 days. To coat the insects place them in a bag or cup with the vitamin or mineral powder. Shake the container around until all the insects are dusted with powder.
Geckos need water
Your Leopard Gecko needs water so keep a shallow dish with water in the cage. Water dishes that are too deep tend to trap and drown crickets, wasting the insect and fouling the water. It is best to use a dish that is shallow in order to give the insect a better chance of escape. You should clean the dish every few day to help prevent bacteria and fungus from growing.
Hope you've enjoyed these feeding tips!
As always...here's to your leopard gecko care success!!
Creating the proper habitat for your leopard gecko
How to create a proper habitat for your Gecko
Leopard Geckos are the easiest pets to care for. But, it is important to set up properly its habitat.
An ideal vivarium for a Leopard Gecko is from 10-15 gallon capacity. It is not ideal to use wire cages. They must live in vivarium that is made of glass (for their security and to avoid losing them). But unlike other Geckos, Leopard Geckos can’t climb in glass. However, its vivarium must have a wire mesh cover to give proper exposure to air and allows light to go through.
The things that you place inside the cage of your leopard gecko will facilitate in making his environment as natural as possible. Items like logs, rocks will make a normal living area and give them the climbing space areas for exercise. Artificial or live plants can also help in giving your Gecko more hiding spots and a much natural feel. If you want to utilize a live plant, select them carefully as some plants can be poisonous to reptiles.
You have to remember three things in making a leopard gecko habitat. It must be good for activity, basking and hiding. Activity spots must be an open area where the Gecko can exercise, climb and simply move around freely. While for the basking area, it must be a smooth or flat wood or rock underneath a light. And it should be one area for each Gecko. Therefore if you have more Geckos, you must provide them with a bigger/wider basking area .
For the hiding spot, these can consist of commercial boxes, inverted pots of clay, overlapping rocks or portions of curved barks. Like the basking area, if you have more Geckos you must also have more hiding spots.
Leopard Geckos are known to be ectothermic which means that they are not able to make their own body heat thus they require additional sources of heat. The vivarium of your Gecko must be about 80 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit during daytime and the basking spot must be about 88 to 90 degree Fahrenheit. At night, the temperature must be 70 degrees.
If you are unsure of your vivariums temperature use a thermometer (for a more accurate reading of temperature).
Lastly, it is important that you maintain your vivarium clean. It is necessary that you eliminate the debris, waste, shed skin and dead feeder insects. You also have to clean the objects that have fecal substance in them. Disinfect and clean the water bowls as often as you can.
Leopard Geckos are the easiest pets to care for. But, it is important to set up properly its habitat.
An ideal vivarium for a Leopard Gecko is from 10-15 gallon capacity. It is not ideal to use wire cages. They must live in vivarium that is made of glass (for their security and to avoid losing them). But unlike other Geckos, Leopard Geckos can’t climb in glass. However, its vivarium must have a wire mesh cover to give proper exposure to air and allows light to go through.
The things that you place inside the cage of your leopard gecko will facilitate in making his environment as natural as possible. Items like logs, rocks will make a normal living area and give them the climbing space areas for exercise. Artificial or live plants can also help in giving your Gecko more hiding spots and a much natural feel. If you want to utilize a live plant, select them carefully as some plants can be poisonous to reptiles.
You have to remember three things in making a leopard gecko habitat. It must be good for activity, basking and hiding. Activity spots must be an open area where the Gecko can exercise, climb and simply move around freely. While for the basking area, it must be a smooth or flat wood or rock underneath a light. And it should be one area for each Gecko. Therefore if you have more Geckos, you must provide them with a bigger/wider basking area .
For the hiding spot, these can consist of commercial boxes, inverted pots of clay, overlapping rocks or portions of curved barks. Like the basking area, if you have more Geckos you must also have more hiding spots.
Leopard Geckos are known to be ectothermic which means that they are not able to make their own body heat thus they require additional sources of heat. The vivarium of your Gecko must be about 80 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit during daytime and the basking spot must be about 88 to 90 degree Fahrenheit. At night, the temperature must be 70 degrees.
If you are unsure of your vivariums temperature use a thermometer (for a more accurate reading of temperature).
Lastly, it is important that you maintain your vivarium clean. It is necessary that you eliminate the debris, waste, shed skin and dead feeder insects. You also have to clean the objects that have fecal substance in them. Disinfect and clean the water bowls as often as you can.
Caring for your leopard gecko | some key tips on leopard gecko care
Caring for your Leopard Gecko
Leopard geckos are very easy to care for. They are surprisingly clean animals. They will pick out a specific area of their living space to use for litter which makes them much easier to clean up after. You may even place a paper towel or similar material in the spot they choose so that clean up is quick and easy.
In their natural habitat leopard geckos live on land. They do not tend to climb trees so it is important that they be provided with housing that provides maximum surface area. The bottom of the aquarium should be covered with some sort of artificial turf, paper towels, or even newspapers. Sand is not recommended as there is a risk that the gecko will ingest too much of it when it captures its meal.
Geckos are insectivores and like to eat live food such as butter worms, cockroaches, crickets, mealworms or wax worms. Many gecko owners choose to raise crickets or mealworms specifically for feeding their pets. If you feed your gecko crickets it is a good idea to place a rock in the center of the water dish to provide the crickets an easy way to get out of the water should they fall in. This will prevent them from fouling up the water.
For many different reasons a gecko can be the perfect pet for you. After reading this, you will probably want to go out and look at a live gecko at your local pet shop. The choice to obtain a gecko should not be an 'impulse' decision. They have a very long life span as far as pets go so if you get one be sure that you are willing to make the commitment to take care of it for a long time to come. Leopard geckos may live 20 years or longer. According to one gecko owner, who wrote a letter to the editor of Reptiles Magazine, their gecko lived for nearly thirty years!
Substrates suitable for your Gecko
The use of slate rocks, s. If you can get smooth flat stones this seems like a good option for making a naturalistic environment that holds and distributes heat well, without much diminished risks of ingesting substrate.
The use of sand is considered unsafe by some, due to the risk of ingestion and impaction (either due to accidental ingestion or due to intentional ingestion to meet calcium needs) -- this is a bigger risk for juveniles so sand should never be used with juvenile geckos. In fact, the general advice is to avoid housing any leopard geckos on sand. Other potential difficulties with sand include dust (which can lead to respiratory problems), and bacterial or mold growth in wet sand.
Provide a dish of calcium supplement to help meet calcium needs. Feeding prey items in a dish can also reduce the chance of ingestion.
Also, monitor for signs of obstruction, which indicate the need for an urgent visit to a vet: decreased appetite, decrease in bowel movements, lethargy, and dark spots on abdomen.
The use of paper towels are one of the best substrates, and are the recommended substrate for juvenile leopard geckos (as well as sickly geckos), but can be used for any leopard gecko. With paper towel substrate, there are no worries about ingestion or inhalation of substrate, and it is absorbent, hygienic, and easy to clean (which reduces the chance of illness). It also makes monitoring health (e.g. eating, bowel movements) easy.
Leopard geckos are very easy to care for. They are surprisingly clean animals. They will pick out a specific area of their living space to use for litter which makes them much easier to clean up after. You may even place a paper towel or similar material in the spot they choose so that clean up is quick and easy.
In their natural habitat leopard geckos live on land. They do not tend to climb trees so it is important that they be provided with housing that provides maximum surface area. The bottom of the aquarium should be covered with some sort of artificial turf, paper towels, or even newspapers. Sand is not recommended as there is a risk that the gecko will ingest too much of it when it captures its meal.
Geckos are insectivores and like to eat live food such as butter worms, cockroaches, crickets, mealworms or wax worms. Many gecko owners choose to raise crickets or mealworms specifically for feeding their pets. If you feed your gecko crickets it is a good idea to place a rock in the center of the water dish to provide the crickets an easy way to get out of the water should they fall in. This will prevent them from fouling up the water.
For many different reasons a gecko can be the perfect pet for you. After reading this, you will probably want to go out and look at a live gecko at your local pet shop. The choice to obtain a gecko should not be an 'impulse' decision. They have a very long life span as far as pets go so if you get one be sure that you are willing to make the commitment to take care of it for a long time to come. Leopard geckos may live 20 years or longer. According to one gecko owner, who wrote a letter to the editor of Reptiles Magazine, their gecko lived for nearly thirty years!
Substrates suitable for your Gecko
The use of slate rocks, s. If you can get smooth flat stones this seems like a good option for making a naturalistic environment that holds and distributes heat well, without much diminished risks of ingesting substrate.
The use of sand is considered unsafe by some, due to the risk of ingestion and impaction (either due to accidental ingestion or due to intentional ingestion to meet calcium needs) -- this is a bigger risk for juveniles so sand should never be used with juvenile geckos. In fact, the general advice is to avoid housing any leopard geckos on sand. Other potential difficulties with sand include dust (which can lead to respiratory problems), and bacterial or mold growth in wet sand.
Provide a dish of calcium supplement to help meet calcium needs. Feeding prey items in a dish can also reduce the chance of ingestion.
Also, monitor for signs of obstruction, which indicate the need for an urgent visit to a vet: decreased appetite, decrease in bowel movements, lethargy, and dark spots on abdomen.
The use of paper towels are one of the best substrates, and are the recommended substrate for juvenile leopard geckos (as well as sickly geckos), but can be used for any leopard gecko. With paper towel substrate, there are no worries about ingestion or inhalation of substrate, and it is absorbent, hygienic, and easy to clean (which reduces the chance of illness). It also makes monitoring health (e.g. eating, bowel movements) easy.
How to tell a male from a female leopard gecko
Sexing Leopard Geckos. How to Tell Male from Female Leopard Geckos
It takes a bit of practice before you can tell and male leopard gecko from a female leopard gecko.
Juvenile leopard geckos can be very difficult to sex. Typically, you can sex leopard geckos at around 3-4 months with experience, and it gets easier as they get older (sexing is usually easier after about 6 months of age).
The differences are quite distinct but are much easier to see with experience or if you have geckos of each sex to compare.
Pre-Anal Pores
Male have a distinct v-shaped row of pre-anal pores in front of the vent (cloaca). As the gecko matures, they become quite prominent and exude a waxy material. Females have a similar row of very small pored, but they are not nearly as prominent and are barely noticeable, and they do not exude the waxy substance.
Hemi penile Bulges
Males have two distinct bulges behind the vent; one on either side of the base of the tail. This is where the hemipenis (male reproductive organs) are located.
Femoral Pores
Males also have enlarged pores on the underside of their rear legs (thighs).
How to tell the difference between male and female Leopard Geckos in summary:
Determining The Sex of a Male Leopard Gecko
- Male Leopard Gecko’s have Femoral Pores on the underside of their thigh.
- Male Leopard Gecko’s have more noticeable V-Shaped Preanal Pores.
- Male Leopard Gecko’s show two hemi penal bulges on the base of their tails.
Determining The Sex of a Female Leopard Gecko
- Female Leopard Gecko's femoral pores are virtually non-existent.
- Female Leopard Gecko's preanal pores are virtually non-existent.
- Female Leopard Gecko’s do not have two hemi penal bulges at the base of their tails.
You will have to wait until the Gecko is old enough, over 6 months at least to really be sure. Juvenile male Leopard Geckos look very much like females.
It takes a bit of practice before you can tell and male leopard gecko from a female leopard gecko.
Juvenile leopard geckos can be very difficult to sex. Typically, you can sex leopard geckos at around 3-4 months with experience, and it gets easier as they get older (sexing is usually easier after about 6 months of age).
The differences are quite distinct but are much easier to see with experience or if you have geckos of each sex to compare.
Pre-Anal Pores
Male have a distinct v-shaped row of pre-anal pores in front of the vent (cloaca). As the gecko matures, they become quite prominent and exude a waxy material. Females have a similar row of very small pored, but they are not nearly as prominent and are barely noticeable, and they do not exude the waxy substance.
Hemi penile Bulges
Males have two distinct bulges behind the vent; one on either side of the base of the tail. This is where the hemipenis (male reproductive organs) are located.
Femoral Pores
Males also have enlarged pores on the underside of their rear legs (thighs).
How to tell the difference between male and female Leopard Geckos in summary:
Determining The Sex of a Male Leopard Gecko
- Male Leopard Gecko’s have Femoral Pores on the underside of their thigh.
- Male Leopard Gecko’s have more noticeable V-Shaped Preanal Pores.
- Male Leopard Gecko’s show two hemi penal bulges on the base of their tails.
Determining The Sex of a Female Leopard Gecko
- Female Leopard Gecko's femoral pores are virtually non-existent.
- Female Leopard Gecko's preanal pores are virtually non-existent.
- Female Leopard Gecko’s do not have two hemi penal bulges at the base of their tails.
You will have to wait until the Gecko is old enough, over 6 months at least to really be sure. Juvenile male Leopard Geckos look very much like females.
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